Just read one(and many others) of your posts that may have helped confirm the fact that my car is a good candidate. I now own a 1897 300SDL. I am the 2nd owner(first owner is now 70) and the car was driven 10K per year, never in the winter here in Central New York. Still have some issues that I would like to take care of first before I dive into the 2 tank system. R134 conversion, Hard Shifting when COLD, Track down one electrical circuit problem, etc.
I appreciate your knowledge and enthusiasm.
If I promise not to inudate you with emails - can we chat 'Off Forum'???
Thank You in advance
Extreme Newbie - Please be patient
134a conversion. By the book, very expensive. Real world method, easy fast and inexpensive.
1) start the engine and turn the AC on, go look at the AC compressor, if the belt is spinning but the front of the pulley is not, then the clutch is not engaging - go to step 3
2) assuming that the clutch system works and you have the ability to jump the low pressure switch (see 3) you can recharge the system. ALL the R12 must be out of the system, by law it is a $10,000 fine to release these flurocarbons into the atmosphere and they must be collected, however most systems which are not working have already leaked the coolant out. Go to Shucks store and ask for a R134a conversion kit by Interdynamics, it has R134a, leak stop and Ester oil, a connecting hose and adapters as well as a sticker for the car which will show that it has been converted. The whole process should take you under an hour if you follow the directions and cost about $30.00
3) look under the hood behind the headlamp on the Left side I believe. You should see a line comming from the condensor (in front of the rad) back to a little junction with a switch on it and a small (smaller than a dime) glass window. Disconnect the wires from this switch (senses low pressure and prevents the compressor from running with no refrigerant) and jump them with a paper clip or a jumper wire. BE VERY CAREFUL as you are working near spinning belts and fans. Once the connection is jumped the clutch on the front of the AC compressor should engage with a loud click and you will see that the front of the pulley is spinning as well.
Shifting when cold - Welcome to the ZF transmission. I would drain all the ATF out of the trans, pull the pan and filter, replace the filter and pan gasket, rotate the Torque converter unitll the small 6mm allen is in the window at the bottom of the bell housing, remove it and drain the ATF from the torque converter. Replace everything and put about 4 quatrs of ATF in. Start and run in park until hot, check ATF level and add as required (totaling 7 to 9 quarts depending on model). Check level with engine hot, running and in park on level ground only.
DO NOT lift the car with a jack and get under it for any reason. Use jack stands, NEVER use suicide ramps - they collapse. Be sure to have someone else around, if a car falls on you, you will not be able to go for help yourself! I say this because it happens all the time, not because I think you foolish.
You can contact me at: chris at goodwinmotorsport dot com
I asume you do not have an 1897 300SDL and you meant 1987? Perhaps you are a little lysdexic?
You can look at my 560SEL (same W126 chassis) to see what can be done with these cars at www.goodwinmotorsport.com under the projects tab.
Yes 1987 - Please also note time of original posting and figure EDST.
Thanks for the contact info.....
Good News is compressor turns and is very quiet. Also jumped the wires to check the fan - which works....
I'll blast off some direct emails to you with questions regarding myth versus reality on R134 conversions.
Your project car looks great. Love the black Grill and Euro Headlights.
Extreme Newbie - Please be patient
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