Quote:
Originally posted by: FosilFool
I just started using the FF760 after using the FF5156, faithfully for 2 years. (GreaseCar system) Not sure why I'm having power loss issues. Might be water or air or bad Vegfilter. Still in the proccess of emptying all my tanks and drums to troubleshoot. You might be right about the filters letting a lot of particals through. People would think they are getting better at filtration...........then one day the IP takes a dump. Funny how cheap the box it came in is. No pride, just keep the shareholders happy.

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Hiking out on the weather rail of environmental partnerships.
now now--dont blame the filter-its doing the job its meant to. Do a little searching to see what the micron rating for the filter is. A 5156 Fleetguard is 15 micron. The replacement i got from filterbarn.com (fleet 2112?) is 6 micron. It plugs up in about 1/2 the time of the 5156.

So- does it mean the 5156 is better cuz you get more miles? Or does the one with less miles is stopping more crud getting thru? Big question of the universe i guess.....

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Give grease a chance

I use the wix 33373. there easier for me to get about $7. I get 1500 miles a filter.

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Keepin it Jersey Fresh

1995 E300D 352,000 miles, lots of new parts
2000 Chocolate Lab, bad quarter panel
2004 Ranger XLT

I'd like to jump in on this conversation, if you don't mind?  One of two factors is addressed in the above posts: (1) junk clogging the medium and (2) the micron rating of the filter.  Each filter has a micron rating that should match the manufacturer's fuel filter spec. Find out this micron number and maintain the same for the VO filter.  (2) Water mostlikely will kill an IP.  Hot pan testing is one way to check for water in the VO.  Clean (heat and setteling) and dewatered VO wil increase the filter life.  

Fuel filters should not have bypass mechansims. Oil filters do but fuel filters don't. If a filter that you are using for fuel has a bypass switch to one that doesn't for the sake of your fuel injection system.
Cheaper filters tend to use a none water absorbing filter media. While water absorbing mrdis is not intended to prevent water from reaching your fuel injection system it IS intended to warn that fuel you are using has water in it. 
 
If the more expensive filters tend to not last as long I recomend testing your wavo fuel for water. I reccomend a water content of no more than 300ppm. The Hot Pan Test is not sensitive enough to use to test for water levels that low. Use a "manometer" or Sandy Brea to test insted.

Fuel filters should not have bypass mechansims. Oil filters do but fuel filters don't. If a filter that you are using for fuel has a bypass switch to one that doesn't for the sake of your fuel injection system.
Cheaper filters tend to use a none water absorbing filter media. While water absorbing mrdis is not intended to prevent water from reaching your fuel injection system it IS intended to warn that fuel you are using has water in it. 
 
If the more expensive filters tend to not last as long I recomend testing your wavo fuel for water. I reccomend a water content of no more than 300ppm. The Hot Pan Test is not sensitive enough to use to test for water levels that low. Use a "manometer" or Sandy Brea to test insted.
 
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this isnt true. if you have a metel can type fuel filter, It will have a by-pass. the way they make those metel can filters is with a spring at the bottom. some springs are heavier then others and thats why they say they have no by-pass. but all in all they do have a by-pass.. Because the spring cant be so heavy that the can will burst. if you take a metel can fuel filter and an oil filter they are built alot alike. with the oil filter you can take a screwdriver and push the metel o-ring (at the top in one of the little holes) down pretty easy. with a fuel filter it is harder, but I have had napa,cat, and wix non by-pass 2 micron filter give. it depends alot on the pump you are using to push or pull the fluid through the filter. grab any metel can filter and take a screwdriver and push down on one of the little holes in the top of the filter. you will be surprised how easy it is to push the metel ring down( the by-pass). then if you dont believe me cut the can open and you will see what I'm talking about. the only non by-pass filter that i know of is Racor and filter built like whole house canisters.. thats what slatemd is talking about

"as far as him clogging filters. that just means it is doing its job."
That is one explanation..but not the only explanation.
There are several others. The most common three are small micron rating, less media surface, and water absorbant filter media.
As for fuel filters having a "bypass spring"....
The ONLY fuel filter I have ever seen with an actual bypass mechanism is in somme aircraft fuel filters.  These also have a monitor so if fuel should bypass the pilot is notified so the entire fuel system on the engine side of the filter can be dissaembled and cleaned.
I think those thinking fuel filters DO have bypass mechanisms may be mistaking the spring that some fuel filters use to hold the element in place against the end cap for a bypass mechanism spring. Those are two different things and do not function similarly.   
 "I stopped at a farm store and bought a 10 mircon fuel filter and that one got clogged up sooner then the napa 10 micron." 
Most likely explanation for that (unless there was a significant difference in the amount of media "accordianed" into the filter) is one had a water absorbing media and the other didn't.

read what you  wrote.... you said they have a spring to hold the filter up to the cap..

ok explain.. if a spring holds  the filter up and me or my pump can push the spring down that will let dirty oil pass above the filter media.. we call  that a by-pass

Ask yourself this..why would filter makers design in a fuel bypass?  Wouldn't that defeat the purpose of a fuel filter?
 
Because thats in the design. as in how would you keep the filter media up to the top without a spring? and yes my 3/4 hp pump does push alot of filter springs down when the filter gets clogged. even wix  and napa filter that say there is no by-pass.

racor is the closest to a no by-pass filter out there that i know of. they have NO springs

he generic luber finer cat crossover just gets slow never plugs.
 
how can that be if fuel filters do not have a by-pass?
I  have to ask? where are you buying your cat filters? I live in Peoria ( home of cat) and have a hard time finding them and when i do they cost ALOT

 
 
 that pic shows what i'm talking about. as the filter gets clogged the spring drops down and lets dirty oil go over the top and not through the media if you glue the media to the metel base above the spring you have a normal fuel filter

The cats have no springs they use solid rubber base to hold element.

The cats have no springs they use solid rubber base to hold element....
yes i seen 2 filters like that but cant remember which filters they were..
JR do me a favor and hold the filter between your feet and take a phillips screwdrive and try to push down the metel ring on top through one of the little holes.. let me know if you can push it down any?

cool where is the  bottom that holds the media up?

"My genuine cat filters stop dead when clogged using the hf pump. The generic luber finer cat crossover just gets slow never plugs."
"how can that be if fuel filters do not have a by-pass?"
 
 
Again..some fuel filters DO have a bypass valve. These are very poorly designed and I suspect in some cases are simply oil filters that FIT some fuel filter ports. If anyone is useing them for a fuel filter they should stop doing that since it can allow dirt to pass by and harm their high pressure fuel injection system.  Saving money by using inferior filters is not a good long term choice.
 
Also some low quality filters use hot glue to bond the element to itself and/or to the endcap of the filter. This glue can dissolve or weaken from hot fuel or fuel that contains methanol or ethanol.  This can cause leakage around the ends of the element. Which is why a spring is used to hold the filter tightly to the end cap in some designs.  These low quality filters can also leak where the element is glued to itself allowing dirty fuel to continue to flow through an other wise clogged filter. 
I suspect the genuine CAT fuel filter are well engineered and made to very high standards..and the generic luberfiner fuel filters are not.
 

"A picture to help you understand this is at 
http://www.mahle-aftermarket.com/C1256F7900537A47/vwContentByKey/W26TDBQQ955STULEN/$FILE/S13_1_en.jpg"
 
"that pic shows what i'm talking about. as the filter gets clogged the spring drops down and lets dirty oil go over the top and not through the media if you glue the media to the metel base above the spring you have a normal fuel filter"
And it is a picture of an OIL FILTER..not a FUEL FILTER.
"if you glue the top and bottom plate to the media you have a fuel filter... they are built the same" 
No...clearly they are not. Not even all fuel filter are bui t the same. Some are glued..and some use a spring (but not a valve) to hold the media in place.
"why would they make fuel filters with a by-pass? doesnt that defeet the perpose"
Now you are catching on. 
Look at you!!!

JR. here is a good write  up on cat filters
http://duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32869

but dana has maybe 2 veggie miles

The world is going to end because the exclusive "scientific research" (That only I know) points to that logical conclusion.
But if you want, you can contact me directly and I can help you out (for a nominal fee, of course.)
 
I think I'll burn all three of my veggie trucks now and go buy an electric car....
No wait, I'll get a bicycle instead............

Just give me the red nose and the rainbow wig, and I'm all set......
 
Just got back from Ford.
 
Got Momma a 2013 Exploder tonight.

Dana:
 
Although you have good information at times, you lose people by semantics.
 
What I do not think you keyed in on was Miller’s statement that he uses a ¾ horse pump.  What that means is Miller uses a clear water pool pump to push his veggie through his filtration system (prior to entering his vehicle.)  He would use a centrifuge (winter time mostly) and at the end of said system of various filters was 2-micron automobile fuel filter.  This was strictly an insurance policy in order to allow him to sleep better at night.   
 
What happened is somehow whatever suspended particles remaining in his filtration system past through the centrifuge and the other filters was being caught by the spin on filter (it is doing its job.)
 
 When it got clogged, his filter would still allow the veggie to flow into his vehicle’s tank.  Unfortunately, the veggie that was going into his tank was dirty!
 
How is that possible?  This is why we call it a by-pass.
 
Now, Brian has discovered the wonderful world of Racor FH-1000 filters and has never had a filter in his vehicle clog up to date.
 
What does that tell you?  It tells me that dirty grease (no matter how small the particulates are) was being pumped through the filter (that has no by-pass) that was designed to catch them.
 
You may be a wealth of information at times, but frankly, I don’t deal in absolutes like you do.  Each vehicle, fuel, and WVO products / systems have their own set of characteristics and will operate differently due to the variables associated with running grease.  You have mechanical issues, environmental issues, filtration issues, and human issues that most definitely will affect the final outcome of your plan to run grease.
 
These effects usually surface as “problems”.  I have troubleshot many a problem.  Most of the problems I encountered I was lucky enough to figure out the “how and why”.  If not, I went to Miller or this forum (for which I am grateful.)
 
Some of the problems I solved, but I have not a clue as to how or why it got resolved.   At the end of the day, I am up and running on grease and snickering when I pass a gas station.   This is what I enjoy about grease.
 
If you want to keep beating the drum with your scientific algorithms of the 13.1 Jiggawatts in the flux capacitor you will lose people’s interest in your posts.
 
Here is a perfect example of a situation that presented itself on my 2003 Ford.
 
Somehow, I was using diesel while in veggie mode:   
Okay, the obvious first: 
Checked the routing of all hoses and return lines:  They were fine.
Checked the wiring to the Pollak valve:  It was dead on.
Checked the Pollak valve itself:  It was fine, but we replaced it with another new one just to be on the safe side.
 
Hmmmm, the problem is still there.  We had installed “check valves” in line as to insure no fuel cross contamination could occur.  What we discovered was that we placed my check valve right next to the Pollak valve where as Miller had his several feet away next to the veggie filter.
 
We changed the check valve’s position and presto, it works.  What we think what was happening is that the amount of fuel pressure generated by the 7.3 (65 to 80 PSI) was being isolated and trapped right after the Pollak valve (before the fuel bowl.)
This in turn was more pressure than the valve is rated for thus allowing a partial switching of fuel.  So, by moving the check valve a few feet away, we now have the fuel hoses’ ability to absorb excess pressure (by expansion) thus allowing the Pollak vale to complete its circuit un interrupted.  We could be wrong with this theory, but several thousand miles later, all is well (for now anyway.)
 
I reiterate, this is the beauty and downfall of greasing:  $hit happens.  I do not come to this forum to try to impress people with what I think I know about greasing.  I can just post what has happened to me and how I overcame it (whether it was by scientific research or hook or by crook, it matters not to me.)
 
 I’m sure that the next problem that surfaces (and it will) for me already has surfaced for someone else.  That is why I come to this forum.
 
If you want to get all defensive about this post, go ahead.  But I assure you, it was not meant as an insult to you.
 
Ciao ciao for now.
 
Slate

Dana:
No, you are incorrect sir!  It is (and was) not filter failure!!!!
Poor design, maybe, but definitely not filter failure!
After dirty wvo "by-passed" the filter, we took the filter apart and did not notice any "damage" to the filter element.
We did notice a spring that (under pressure) retracts thus allowing fuel to flow directly into the engine.
This is why we called it a “by-pass” because dirty fuel was “BY-PASSING” the filter element.
There may not be an integrated "by-pass" valve incorporated within the filter design, however, the fact remains that whether it is by design or not, some filters will allow dirty fuel to go straight into your motor (not filtered….. get it?) if the fuel pressure exceeds the tolerance limit of the internal spring we found inside the filter.
Dirty fuel will be routed into the motor..........I guarantee it.............!
I cannot not understand why can't accept these findings…….

wow the english language is great. I thought it was just for letting someone know what you are talking about. but when they change and add new words all the time I get confused.
so the point here is almost all metel can type fuel filter will let dirty grease pass by...