Question for Kirk (or any one else using a stock fuel pump on a Power Stroke for their wvo.)

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slatemd's picture
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Joined: 11/26/2007

Hey gang:
I'm just curious about those who use a stock fuel pump for grease on a 7.3 Power Stroke.
I am wondering how much of a life span you are seeing running straight wvo through a stock fuel pump.
I bought  two of them from Napa (It is good to keep a spare pump in the vehicle.) NAPA has a one year replacement warranty, so this experiment should not be too expensive as it compares to a $400.00 Raptor pump.
I do not purge my veggie pump with diesel.  It has had grease in it since day one.  I do not think this to be too prudent, but hey, I’m experimenting.
I have 2 independent pumps and filters.
Let me know if you are running it straight with wvo and/or if you are purging diesel through it before you shut down.
I just had a couple of interesting developments and I am trying to figure out the "why". 
Other than that, all is well with my conversion, and I just changed my grease filter after 4,000 miles because I started to notice a small decline in fuel pressure. 
Hey, a $10.00 filter compared to 300 gallons of fuel saved, who cares………..
Thanks one and all who responds to this inquiry.
 
Ciao ciao for now.
Slate  
 
 
 

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JR3342's picture
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Joined: 02/23/2012

From my research. The results are better with a psd pump vs fass or other high end units. Im running a second psd pump with fuel pressure reg set to 70 psi. The ksy to long life is push thru the filters only pull thru a mesh strainer filter for big chunks. The $39.95 made in USA pump on Ebay is highly recommended. My set up is vegiestroke style into the test Ports.
Could go thru 10 pumps and still be cheaper than fass pumps.

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92 300d gc kit.
99 f250 diy vegistroke under construction.

slatemd's picture
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Joined: 11/26/2007

Hey JR:
I pull from the filter. 
This allows me to use a vacuum gauge as so I cen better determine filter life.
When you say PSD pump for $39.00, are you talking about a stock replacement fuel pump?

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JR3342's picture
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Joined: 02/23/2012

Yes stock d2 aftermarket replacement.

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92 300d gc kit.
99 f250 diy vegistroke under construction.

slatemd's picture
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Joined: 11/26/2007

 
Thanks

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KirkH's picture
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Joined: 06/07/2008

I use the Greasecar design and have a PSD stock pump from NAPA ($99) pumping both diesel and veg, and I do purge with diesel.
I also carry a spare with me.  
I bought my truck with 199,000 miles and converted it at 201,000. At 242,740, I installed a new pump replacing the original stock pump (or at least it was a Bosch like the original.)  At 262330, I replaced the second pump, because I killed it (my fault) with a clogged FPHE.  I am sure it would have lived longer without the clogged FPHE.  I currently have 278,000 miles.
I am going to order one of the $39.95 pumps off eBay.

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2002 Powerstroke Greasecar kit, 20 plate heat exchanger, water injection, Aeroforce Scan Gauge II, ISSPro fuel pressure, trans temp, boost and EGT gauges, Cyberdyne grease and coolant temperature gauges, auxilliary coolant pump, 282,000 miles, 82,000 on grease.&nbsp

veggpwr's picture
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Joined: 09/27/2010

I pull from the filter. 
This allows me to use a vacuum gauge as so I cen better determine filter life.

 

You can also push the filter and monitor the pressure after the filter.
A significant drop in pressure would means changing filter time.
I installed a 2um filter (secondary filtration) right before the HP pump. I would expect 11 psi input to pump at idle with new filter.
When I see 9 psi I have to change that filter.

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'05 Cummins CTD 24V HPCR RAM 2500 QC SLT SB Black 4X4 48RE  325 hp  610 ft.lbs
GC Kit  + 3rd Tank WVO(80%)/RUG(20%)  +  Co-Pilot 
3-Tank Operation managed by Co-Pilot: Blending(warm up) / Veggie(hot run) / Diesel(purge for next start)
Smarty Jr  40/70/100 hp (Timing Map Modification)
 

JR3342's picture
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Joined: 02/23/2012

The further back in system the pump makes more pressurized lines and fittings = less air leaks.

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92 300d gc kit.
99 f250 diy vegistroke under construction.

slatemd's picture
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Joined: 11/26/2007

Kirk:
Clogged FPHE?
Wow, that must have been a real head scratcher!
What was clogged, the fittings?
Inside the the plates?
I never would have thought that to be a problem.
Is your fuel pump still on the bottom rail behind the drivers' seat, or did you relocate it?
Thanks.

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slatemd's picture
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Joined: 11/26/2007

The further back in system the pump makes more pressurized lines and fittings = less air leaks.
 
Correct.

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slatemd's picture
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Joined: 11/26/2007

You can also push the filter and monitor the pressure after the filter.
A significant drop in pressure would means changing filter time.
I installed a 2um filter (secondary filtration) right before the HP pump. I would expect 11 psi input to pump at idle with new filter.
When I see 9 psi I have to change that filter.
 
Correct as well.  This is how my Cummins is set up too.
I am sharing the same filter and lift pump on the Cummins. 
I wanted to have two completely independent fuel systems on the PSD, so when the grease side gets a hiccup, I can simply switch to Dino and keep on trucking if I did not want to trouble shoot the problem right then and there.
 
 
 
 

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KirkH's picture
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Joined: 06/07/2008

Clogged FPHE?
Wow, that must have been a real head scratcher!

Not really.  I have a sight filter right after my pump so I can see what fuel I am pumping.  Diesel was going thru the filter but no veg.  The FPHE plates had clogged up with poly.  I believe that AIR is the cause of poly, and the relocating of the fuel pump to the top of the engine (greasecar design) combined with the "draw straw" style fuel pickup in the powerstroke means that every time you turn the engine off, fuel drains from the pump, since the pump is at the highest point in the fuel system, leaving air in the fuel system. <man that was a long sentence!> I was not purging the FPHE either.
 
 
 

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2002 Powerstroke Greasecar kit, 20 plate heat exchanger, water injection, Aeroforce Scan Gauge II, ISSPro fuel pressure, trans temp, boost and EGT gauges, Cyberdyne grease and coolant temperature gauges, auxilliary coolant pump, 282,000 miles, 82,000 on grease.&nbsp

veggpwr's picture
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Joined: 09/27/2010

I wanted to have two completely independent fuel systems on the PSD, so when the grease side gets a hiccup, I can simply switch to Dino and keep on trucking if I did not want to trouble shoot the problem right then and there.
This is the same as my GC kit set up. The veggie pump and FPHE are never purged.
 
Let me know if you are running it straight with wvo and/or if you are purging diesel through it before you shut down.
How to purge diesel through veggie pump when you have two independent system? 
 
I just changed my grease filter after 4,000 miles because I started to notice a small decline in fuel pressure.
My GC kit filter is 12um. Since the installation of the kit, I changed the first filter at 7500 miles not because of a problem.
My second filter still running without problem over 10000 miles.
I added an extra 2um filter (with manual bypass) before HP pump for better filtration. This is my final defense.
Have to change this filter every 1000-1200 miles (when I see 2psi drop in pressure).
And this filter is purged with diesel. I needs a two-minute purge because of this filter.

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'05 Cummins CTD 24V HPCR RAM 2500 QC SLT SB Black 4X4 48RE  325 hp  610 ft.lbs
GC Kit  + 3rd Tank WVO(80%)/RUG(20%)  +  Co-Pilot 
3-Tank Operation managed by Co-Pilot: Blending(warm up) / Veggie(hot run) / Diesel(purge for next start)
Smarty Jr  40/70/100 hp (Timing Map Modification)
 

veggpwr's picture
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Joined: 09/27/2010

The $39.95 made in USA pump on Ebay is highly recommended
 
Checked out that pump online. 
Made in USA (Help support American Work Force) + Lifetime Warranty + Free Shipping
I am going to find out whether it works on my truck. (See if the GPH match or higher than that of my stock pump)
If it works I would buy three pumps, one for spare, install two (in parallel configuration) on the truck.
Then use a toggle switch inside the cab for the selection of the pump you want to run.
You can run pump A on odd days and pump B on even days or something like that.
If one pump failure on the road switch over to the other pump.
The down time for running on veggie due to veggie pump failure would be approach to zero.

__________________

'05 Cummins CTD 24V HPCR RAM 2500 QC SLT SB Black 4X4 48RE  325 hp  610 ft.lbs
GC Kit  + 3rd Tank WVO(80%)/RUG(20%)  +  Co-Pilot 
3-Tank Operation managed by Co-Pilot: Blending(warm up) / Veggie(hot run) / Diesel(purge for next start)
Smarty Jr  40/70/100 hp (Timing Map Modification)
 

slatemd's picture
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Joined: 11/26/2007

I understand what you all have said, but I can’t help to think that if you push through the filter, you may allow debris to also get pushed right into your injection system because of the built up pressure behind the filter.
I spoke with Brian and he has had the same experience as Kirk regarding “poly” in the FPHE. I was surprised to hear this considering it is not made out of copper.
My thoughts are this: WVO tank, FPHE, filter, fuel pump, injection pump.
I firmly believe that the very last item before the injection pump should be the filter.
I understand it is beneficial to have the pump as close to the tank as possible (so you can push the fuel and limit the chances of air), but there is limited room for that idea, because I like having the FPHE and the filter before the fuel pump.
If there is a glitch with the FPHE’s and your filter is before that, you will most likely transmit poly straight into your motor.
Veggie Power: Regarding the 2-seperate fuel system purge possibility: I could simply add an additional Pollack valve and allow diesel to be pumped through the veggie pump for a purge. The only thing that may be a hiccup is that I will need to have both pumps energized for this purge because I believe you cannot suck or pump through a PSD fuel pump when it is not energized. I don't know.
Kirk: That is an interesting point about the PSD pump being higher than the FPHE. My design resembles the Greasecar system as well. My FPHE is attached on the upper fender on the drivers' side and my PSD fuel pump is attached on the passengers' side upper fender. They are both about the same height (give or take an inch or so with the FPHE being slightly lower.)
Thanks.

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slatemd's picture
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Kirk:  Can you post a link showing me the sight glass filter you are using?
I think that to be a good idea.  I have some Mercedes Benz type pre filters  laying around, but I am concerned about the wvo temps as it relates to these little plastic housing filters.
 VeggiePower:  Are you using a stock PSD pump on your veggie side now?
 
Thanks

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veggpwr's picture
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Are you using a stock PSD pump on your veggie side now?
 
No, I am running on my second Raptor 150 and I have another one for spare. It's a GC kit.
I got a new replacement for the first defective one. Then I tried to order parts to fix the defective one
for spare use for around $180. It ended up they send me a new one for $220.
The first one lasted for only 12 months around 12000 miles and that's why..........
I am thinking to get one of the $39.95 pump and install it in parallel with my Raptor to see
how it would work on my truck. I would need a pressure regulator to reduce the presure to 15 psi.
Also I don't know the GPH of my stock diesel pump (9psi) and I am worry about the GPH after the regulator.
Still in the thinking stage........
 
Slatemd if my truck is a PSD definitely I would try this $39.95 pump in parallel configuration
and have redundency operation.
For PSD this pump is a straight application.
 
Also have the pump installed at a location lower than the fuel tank would help gravity feed
the pump for easier operation.

__________________

'05 Cummins CTD 24V HPCR RAM 2500 QC SLT SB Black 4X4 48RE  325 hp  610 ft.lbs
GC Kit  + 3rd Tank WVO(80%)/RUG(20%)  +  Co-Pilot 
3-Tank Operation managed by Co-Pilot: Blending(warm up) / Veggie(hot run) / Diesel(purge for next start)
Smarty Jr  40/70/100 hp (Timing Map Modification)