ok any commants on "cold" filtering garge/sun temp. vs. heating up to 100 F. Do you think cold filtering will get more "crap" out of the oil then heating it and letting some of the crap begin to melt and not get filtered out??
04.7 2500 CTD 325/600 White/Slate quad cab Lone Star Edition, 4 speed automatic 4X4 with manual transfer case, back floor rack, mopar bed liner w. protection pad, rubber mat on top, white camper shell w. flip down/sliding front window. Red Powered by cumm
I "cold filter" and it seems to work fine. It is slow, though, so you have to have a reserve of filtered oil.
Some people have had trouble filtering oil hot, then having it cool some of the fats congeal.
I'm actually doing both... heated and cold filtering. I heat the oil overnight to hopefully drop out some of the water and to get the oil warm enough to flow through five grades of bag filters.
After this filtered oil cools, I pump it through a 5 micron cartridge filter on the way to the truck.
By the way, when the oil is still warm, it flows very well through the bags. This week I pumped some through wihtout heating. Average temps in my shop are probably 90 degrees. Even late night the interior temps are over 90. Just this much cooling reduced the flow rate significantly. The bags filled up very quickly.
The thick tallow isn't a particulate contamination. Could we use a higher micron filtration than 5 microns to catch this 'sludge'? Would a 25 or 50 micron filter catch the tallow?
Otherwise, it seems to be up to the heat exchanger in the tank to heat it up sufficiently to flow and burn in the engine.
Most fryer oil contains some hydrogenated oil which looks like "wax" or "tallow" below 70F. If one filters at a lower temperature most of the hydrogenated oil can be removed. If one filters at a higher temperature the hydrogenated oil stays in till the temperature drops below 70, then it precipitates out. If it does this in the vehicle tank or fuel lines then it can cause problems.
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