Blown Turbo TDI
August 5, 2011 - 10:16pm
Car Info: '03 Jetta TDI, stock greasecar kit. 126k miles.
I was driving on grease on the interstate and had a loss of power, so I switched back to diesel thinking it was a plugged veg filter. purged/rode on diesel for a while and it was still doing it. I pulled over and it idled fine, but when I started driving again I noticed that my Turbo Boost Gauge was not showing any pressure. If you know the ALH TDI you also know that it makes a "whistling" sound when you give it the gas and the tubo is kicking in. It was not doing this after this loss of power.
It's got about as much power right now as my old '84 rabbit non turbo diesel. 55 mph up a steep hill.
Any suggestions on what I should look for first? And is there any hope it's a simple fix before an expensive one?
P.S. I am not posting this on tdi club i'm not a fan of posting on that site, only browsing info.
thanks
August 9, 2011 - 12:01am
#2
Hi Justin, thanks for your response.
Nope, there wasn't bluish/white smoke at all, and the funny thing is that I started the car the next morning and it had full power and the turbo was definitely working. I drove it to L.A. and back on grease since then and no problems.
My check engine light is on and has been on for a while. I had it scanned as soon as it came on and it read that glow plug number 4 was not working. I just assumed that this wasn't a big deal because of the climate I'm in, so I haven't fixed it yet. Would just the light being on force the car in to limp mode sporadically like that?
I have a manual for my car that's pretty good so I can check out all the things you mentioned.
August 9, 2011 - 10:56am
#3
Codes can stack up so you likely have additional codes in the cue right now and they are probably "intermittent" meaning it was a momentary glitch that caused your limp. Usually these will be related to the injection pump, turbo or EGR system. Get them checked when you have a chance and you'll have more info to go off of.
August 15, 2011 - 2:11pm
#4
Agree with everything Justin said. Your glowplug fault should not cause limp mode, no matter how long it has been on for. Do check and clear the codes, and search around on the TDI Club. It is a relatively common problem and all the answers should be there. I very much doubt it is grease related, but you are wise not to mention that on the club forum unless you have a thick skin.
August 19, 2011 - 7:48am
#5
I am having the same issue. Loss of power. Honestly it doesnt bother me that much. I am assuming it is the N75 you were talking about. How do you test a MAF sensor?
Thanks for any info.
Joel
August 19, 2011 - 7:34pm
#6
I think you will get a code for the MAF, even on a regular OBDII reader. You can try unplugging the MAF, if it runs the same or better that's probably your problem. You can buy special spray cleaner for the sensor, and it may help. You can also borrow one from someone else's car just to test it. TDIParts.com has good prices and fast shipping.
Check the TDI Club forum for definitive answers.
August 24, 2011 - 7:45pm
#7
Found a bad vaccum hose and it fixed my issue.
November 24, 2011 - 10:06pm
#8
Good thing mine was only the air filter, a very easy fix but i was not expecting it on the first place it was the last thing i check and really got me worried because it tought it was something else that is expensive. When i look on the air filter it was really dirty filled with dust and dirt that could really prevent your vehicle from getting air that cost loss of power. I wish i wont be facing another bigger problems with my grease car. anyway guys this is the site where i get most of my car parts, just sharing it to everybody if you know other sites which are good please post it also in here. i really love comparing prices on the internet wasting my time getting the most cheapest value as possible. anyway cheers! happy thanks giving day to all!
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If you blew your turbo you would be belching bluish white smoke as the oil from your turbo blows into the intake and exhaust streams. If this is happening DO NOT TRY TO START OR DRIVE YOUR CAR! Engine hydro locking, run away or an exhaust fire can occur. However, since you didn't mention these symptoms I assume you just have a power loss.
If the power loss goes away when you cycle the ignition then your problem is "Limp Mode" which is triggered by the engine computer when certain trouble codes pop up and you will need to scan your codes to see what comes up.
Other causes of power loss you should check:
-Air filter and the intake tube that runs inside of the driver's side fender to the air box: if these are full of debris you will have significant power loss.
-Mass Airflow Sensor: When this craps out your car loses all it's spunk, this is a common problem and requires the MAF to be swapped out.
-Turbo vane actuator and vacuum lines: The vane actuator is a diaphragm mounted to the turbo that is controlled by vacuum produced by the engine's vacuum pump and regulated by the computer by means of the N75 solenoid valve on the fire wall. These actuators can fail over time and replacements are available for around $100 from vendors such as idparts.com. You can test the actuator by attaching a Mityvac to it and pumping up the vacuum. If the arm on the actuator doesn't move or it returns to it's extended position while vacuum is still applied then you have a bad diaphragm.
If any of the vacuum lines between the vacuum pump, N75 or actuator are dis-connected this will cause similar symptoms so inspect them. If the N75 goes bad or the wires to it break you will also have the same symptoms.
Of course there are other things that lead to power loss but these will get you started, it would also be a good idea to scan for codes that may give a clue.
__________________
Justin Carven
P: 413.534.0013
justin@greasecar.com