Broken valve- diesel fuel in greasetank, and vice versa

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KirkH's picture
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Joined: 06/07/2008

I was driving down the road and noticed my diesel fuel gauge visibly dropping!  Pulled over and my grease tank was overflowing.  I drove home and checked the electrical and grounds on both valve and they were good.  I went to take the "B" (purge) valve out to see if it was stuck open, and I noticed the top part (solenoid) was "loose."  When I removed the valve, the valve body dropped right out of the solenoid and there was a broken piece of plastic that fell out also.  I tried to put the valve back in, turned the power off to the valves, but then I noticed the grease tank level was dropping, so veg oil was being returned to the diesel tank (not good).

Called greasecar and ordered a new valve.  They gave me great customer service.  Conor called me to instruct me how to bypass the valve so I ran on diesel and returned diesel to the diesel tank.  Simply had to take the hoses off the Normally Open and COM port of each valve, and connect those hoses together, and I was back to essentially the stock fuel system.  Very easy to do incase you ever have any type of valve malfunction!

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2002 Powerstroke Greasecar kit, 20 plate heat exchanger, water injection, Aeroforce Scan Gauge II, ISSPro fuel pressure, trans temp, boost and EGT gauges, Cyberdyne grease and coolant temperature gauges, auxilliary coolant pump, 252,000 miles, 52,000 on grease.&nbsp

1984George's picture
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Joined: 09/28/2009

Cool that's a good tip.

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-Daren
'03 Jetta TDI
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admin's picture
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Joined: 05/21/2009

Here was your original post fromt the old forums:

I was driving and I noticed my diesel fuel gauge was visibly dropping. I pulled over and checked my grease tank and it was full to overflowing. I checked the power and grounds to the B (purge) valve, and they were good. I began to take the valve out to check for an obstruction and I noticed that the top solenoid part was loose. The A valve was not loose. When I pulled it out, the valve part fell right out of the cartridge and I could see that a plastic piece that held the valve in the cartridge was broken. It looked like it could have melted.

I put the broken valve back in, switched back to diesel and drove home but when I got home, I noticed the level of the grease tank had gone down, the diesel tank level had risen so veg oil was being returned to the diesel tank.

I emailed Greasecar and they responded promptly. Rick got me a new valve cartridge shipped out immediately, and Conor talked me through re-plumbing to bypass the greasecar valves so I could run on diesel without returning veg oil to the diesel tank.

It was very easy to re-plumb. Just take the hose off the normally open port and the hose off the COM port, and connect them together.

Here's the pics:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kirkharrod/4947576981/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kirkharrod/4947576895/in/photostream/

KirkH's picture
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Joined: 06/07/2008

So I got the new SV-98 valve and installed it, but diesel was still pouring into the Greasecar tank.  I put my hand on the valve, and I felt the new valve click, but did not feel the old valve click.  When I took that valve out, it also was broken, the same plastic pieces!  I followed the Greasecar instructions to pry the valve out by the base with a screwdriver.  The plastic piece just crumbled in my fingers.  It appears to me that heat and fuel may have deteriorated the plastic.  I do not believe that I broke the valve removing it, and if I did, then there is a problem with the SV-98 valve, because I followed directions exactly and was very gentle with it.

I emailed Greasecar and Conor directly, but after 3 days, they still had not responded to my emails.  I called Greasecar (during business hours) and left a message, but no one called me back.  The next day, I called Greasecar again, to order another valve, but this time, customer service wasn't so great.  When Rick answered, I said, "Hey Rick, this is Kirk, you sent me that new valve out last week?"  Rick just said, "Yeah..."  No, "How you doing?", no "how'd that valve work out?", etc.  Just, "yeah." and silence. 

I explained that the old valve was broken in the same place.  Rick said that I had broken the valve taking it out.  I replied that I followed the greasecar website instructions exactly.  Then he said that I should have checked the valves every 6 months for poly buildup (I had done so) and that poly build up would cause the valve to stick.  My valves were clean and had no poly on them, which surprised me since I had trouble with my flat plate heat exchanger getting all poly'd up.

I asked if they could give me a better price on the second valve, but he said "no."  I got the feeling I was annoying Rick so I just said I would call back later to order a new valve.

I was disappointed with the Greasecar customer service.  I am sorry if my problems with their product "irritated" the customer service rep.

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2002 Powerstroke Greasecar kit, 20 plate heat exchanger, water injection, Aeroforce Scan Gauge II, ISSPro fuel pressure, trans temp, boost and EGT gauges, Cyberdyne grease and coolant temperature gauges, auxilliary coolant pump, 252,000 miles, 52,000 on grease.&nbsp

KirkH's picture
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Joined: 06/07/2008

I was able to find the Hydraforce SV98 valve locally for $36. Greasecar charged me $60 for the one I got from them. I found it at Scott Industrial, Louisville, KY.

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2002 Powerstroke Greasecar kit, 20 plate heat exchanger, water injection, Aeroforce Scan Gauge II, ISSPro fuel pressure, trans temp, boost and EGT gauges, Cyberdyne grease and coolant temperature gauges, auxilliary coolant pump, 252,000 miles, 52,000 on grease.&nbsp

BrianMiller's picture
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Joined: 05/11/2006

I couldnt find a place online to buy those? I see all the info

KirkH's picture
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Joined: 06/07/2008

Anyone can call or email them.  They are very helpful and will even ship COD!

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2002 Powerstroke Greasecar kit, 20 plate heat exchanger, water injection, Aeroforce Scan Gauge II, ISSPro fuel pressure, trans temp, boost and EGT gauges, Cyberdyne grease and coolant temperature gauges, auxilliary coolant pump, 252,000 miles, 52,000 on grease.&nbsp

steveaustin's picture
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Joined: 09/14/2010

One of the great post and tips about Fuel Oil in greasetank.

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SimpleText's picture
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Joined: 10/27/2008

I'm pretty sure I have this same problem... I just took my 300D down to the gulf and had no problems on the trip down but now I noticed after putting about 5 gallons of diesel in that it's being flushed back into the veggie tank which has overflowed!

I started having the usual symptoms of clogged filters about two weeks ago so I changed them all and still was running really sluggish when switched to Veg Oil, I took everything apart then and cleaned it out thinking that something was clogged somewhere; nothing.. still the same...

So I've been driving it since, just flushing diesel back in whenever it felt sluggish, now it seems one of the valves (or both) are just busted...

tonight I'm going to take apart both valves and try to clean them as best I can, I was thinking of leaving the wiring hooked up and cleaning them with acetone in each position (on and off)?

Any recommendations? & Is there any way to get a .pdf copy of the installation manual?

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KirkH's picture
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Joined: 06/07/2008

You can remove the valves by following the instructions on the greasecar website. To see if the valves are working, have someone else power on the valves, one at a time, while you keep your hand on the valve. You should feel and hear a very noticeable click. If no click, check your ground wires first. I used an electrical multimeter so determine if the valves were getting power and if the ground was connected. Then take valves out and see if there is a clog or broken parts.

__________________

2002 Powerstroke Greasecar kit, 20 plate heat exchanger, water injection, Aeroforce Scan Gauge II, ISSPro fuel pressure, trans temp, boost and EGT gauges, Cyberdyne grease and coolant temperature gauges, auxilliary coolant pump, 252,000 miles, 52,000 on grease.&nbsp

KirkH's picture
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Joined: 06/07/2008

You can remove the valves by following the instructions on the greasecar website. To see if the valves are working, have someone else power on the valves, one at a time, while you keep your hand on the valve. You should feel and hear a very noticeable click. If no click, check your ground wires first. I used an electrical multimeter so determine if the valves were getting power and if the ground was connected. Then take valves out and see if there is a clog or broken parts.

__________________

2002 Powerstroke Greasecar kit, 20 plate heat exchanger, water injection, Aeroforce Scan Gauge II, ISSPro fuel pressure, trans temp, boost and EGT gauges, Cyberdyne grease and coolant temperature gauges, auxilliary coolant pump, 252,000 miles, 52,000 on grease.&nbsp

SimpleText's picture
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Joined: 10/27/2008

they both click but one valve's NO port stays open when the NC port on it is open... could not find the instructions you refer to... also can not find a .pdf of the manual showing all the plumbing... is there any way to get this or do they want to buy a physical copy?

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KirkH's picture
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Joined: 06/07/2008

You may have polymerized oil clogging the valve.  Here's the link to removing and checking the valve.

http://www.greasecar.com/article/greasecar-valve-troubleshooting

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2002 Powerstroke Greasecar kit, 20 plate heat exchanger, water injection, Aeroforce Scan Gauge II, ISSPro fuel pressure, trans temp, boost and EGT gauges, Cyberdyne grease and coolant temperature gauges, auxilliary coolant pump, 252,000 miles, 52,000 on grease.&nbsp