stalling after switchover

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skinnybones's picture
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Joined: 03/06/2006

i have been experiencing a rather frustrating problem. almost every time i switch to grease i start to loose power and then stall. i wait until my oil temp gauge is up to/over 150F and then switch. the only times this didn't happen was the first or first couple times right after the install, and last week when the temp was 160F+. it also takes FOREVER to get up to these temps.

after stalling out i switch back to biodiesel or purge and spend several minutes of repeated cranking to get it started again. weird thing is after this first loosing power&stalling-out tantrum, it switches over to grease just fine without nary a hiccup, and can run on grease like i know it should(no problem).

i have been reading the forums, and took some of the suggestions, and rechecked/retightened all of the hose clamps and connections to insure against air leakage. i also removed that little rubber gasket/pressure release? thing in the underside(really in between the two portions of) of the veg tank cap. none of these suggestions have miraculously "fixed" this issue.

i have a hunch that the temp issue may have a larger role than i think, and that it may simply be a fact of grease that is not quite hot enough hitting the IP that is causing me to loose power and then stall-out. if so, why doesn't my stock GC kit get me up to a suitable temp for switch-over in a reasonable amount of time? (it usually takes about 30+ minutes of driving to get up to 150 or higher) or perhaps a better question would be: what do i need to do/buy/install to get up to optimall temps for switch over so i can be burning SVO a.s.a.p. after driving?

if the temp of grease hitting the IP is THE main culprit, is that a viscosity issue? i.e., 160+F grease= good, smooth switchover, and 150F& under= not quite viscous enough/injectors getting clogged/flow not good enough?

would an added in-line fuel pump help. if it is flow rate, maybe the additional pull of another fuel pump would help? or maybe counteract small air leaks?

maybe it is all about the temp. what do y'all think?

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"it is the duty of the patriot to protect their country from its government" -thomas paine

"loyalty to the country always, loyalty to the government when it deserves it" -mark twain

skinnybones's picture
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Joined: 03/06/2006

oh, some additional info: nothing but virgin oil in the tank so far, so i feel confident that it is not a clogged filter issue.

sdeck's picture
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Joined: 08/28/2006

I doubt it is cold grease. if the oil is flowable, it will run. The engine won't like it and you may do some damage by coking the cylinders/rings/injectors, but it will run.

Sounds more like you have a bad ground on the valves or still have air in the lines. Intermittent switch contact is also possible. Check valve operation by having someone switch the system with the key on, engine off.

VO-->D both valves click/actuate
D-->VO both valves click
VO-->supply valve only clicks

Pull your filter and see if there is air in it or watch VO tank for bubbles when purging for an extended time.

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sdeck

2003 Jetta TDI, GreaseCar kit, veg-therm std, TDIHeater, >20,000 veggie miles and counting!

"If you make it idiot proof, nature will make a better idiot"

skinnybones's picture
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Joined: 03/06/2006

going with the air leak theory: after the first switchover to grease(and subsiquent loss of power and stalling-out), i then restart on diesel(after cranking it for a bit and worrying that i am frying my starter), does it make any sense that once it is running again and at decent temp i am able to switch to grease with no problems(no loss of power, no stalling-out) and run on grease effortlessly? in other words, if there is indeed air leaking in on the grease side of fuel plumbing, why wouldn't this also affect operation when i am switched to grease and the vehicle is running fine?

i will try checking the filter for air, and am assuming you mean take the filter out of housing and dump oil from filter into something clear and looking for bubbles, right? will also try purging for longer than my usuall 60 sec. and look for bubbles in tank.
thanks for the suggestions.

sdeck's picture
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Joined: 08/28/2006

Quote:
Originally posted by: skinnybones
going with the air leak theory: after the first switchover to grease(and subsiquent loss of power and stalling-out), i then restart on diesel(after cranking it for a bit and worrying that i am frying my starter), does it make any sense that once it is running again and at decent temp i am able to switch to grease with no problems(no loss of power, no stalling-out) and run on grease effortlessly? in other words, if there is indeed air leaking in on the grease side of fuel plumbing, why wouldn't this also affect operation when i am switched to grease and the vehicle is running fine?

i will try checking the filter for air, and am assuming you mean take the filter out of housing and dump oil from filter into something clear and looking for bubbles, right? will also try purging for longer than my usuall 60 sec. and look for bubbles in tank.
thanks for the suggestions.
I don't thihnk you need to dump the oil out of the filter, just check the level. it should be full enough to spill when you unscrew it, but looking for bubbles is not a bad idea, especially since you already have it out.

As far as hard to switch but then fine, one possibility is that a very slow leak or a leak on the pressure side of the IP would allow air into the system when the system is off. this causes the oil to drain to the lowest point, the tank. the air in the line makes it hard to run when you switch and when you switch to diesel or purge the air get pushed back to the diesel or VO tank (depending on which mode). since the leak is slow or since it now under pressure, it will either leak or allow very small amounts of air in. i would also check the filter seal since it could cause all these. You did grease it before installing right?

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sdeck

2003 Jetta TDI, GreaseCar kit, veg-therm std, TDIHeater, >20,000 veggie miles and counting!

"If you make it idiot proof, nature will make a better idiot"

skinnybones's picture
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Joined: 03/06/2006

it was 103 degrees out here yesterday, and i saw my temp gauge(sensor in filter) hit 173, the hottest i have yet seen it get, and so decided to switch to grease. not even a hiccup. no loss of power, no stalling out. flawless like its supposed to be. did see the temp gradually fall 20 degrees before stabilizing, and so i'm left thinking that my problem has more to do with temp than anything else. if it was an air-leak issue, it would cause me problems no matter the temp right?
if this is true, does it have to be 100+ degrees outside for my stock kit to work flawlessly? maybe i just gotta get a vegtherm.

-------------------------
"it is the duty of the patriot to protect their country from its government" -thomas paine

"loyalty to the country always, loyalty to the government when it deserves it" -mark twain

natdavauer's picture
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Joined: 08/27/2006

Hi,
I've been having a problem for months now and haven't found the solution. I've been scouring the forums and these symptoms appear all the time but with widely varying diagnoses. I feel like I'm having the same problems as skinnybones. Hopefully more people with the same symptoms and all the advice out there might solve our problems better so thanks in advance to any advice.

I believe it's air at this point. I installed a small clear fuel filter in my veg line right before the valves to see if there was air in the line at that point. You can see pictures and a video of it running here: http://www.davauer.com/svo
The problem is, I don't know what it should look like so it doesn't really tell me if it's the problem. I'm assuming that filter should fill up with fuel and there should be no air or bubbles in it. As you can see from the pictures and the video, bubbles are constantly being formed as grease comes into the filter and it never fills to the top. I'm assuming there should be no air in the filter and therefore this test shows that the problem is air. Can anyone confirm this?

My symptoms are as follows: if I put in a brand new filter I get about 200 miles of smooth grease driving as it should be with no power loss. Then I start to get intermittent power loss and slow bucking. If I switch back to diesel it runs fine. If I leave it run for 10 miles on diesel and then switch back to veg I get another 10 miles or so of smooth running. I can do this over and over and get another 200 miles out of the filter.

I thought it was dirty oil/clogged filter at first because when I changed the filter I would get the smooth 200 miles. But it doesn't make sense because if it was clogged, it would stay clogged even if you switched back after ten miles on diesel. Maybe the air bubbles settle or something over the ten miles on diesel?

I also filter my oil through one 5micron filter and then heat it and filter it through the 5 lined with the 1. So 5+5+1 before going in the tank. I know the filters can get 2K plus miles on good filtered grease.

Again, I feel like the pictures of the filter should explain if that air is a problem or not. I just don't know what it should look like.

Thanks everyone for any advice.

Nat

natdavauer's picture
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Joined: 08/27/2006

Sorry, one more thing that I think is relavent. When I first installed the system last fall I got 1200 miles of smooth running before changing a filter with grease filtered to 5m only once. This also makes me think it's air because maybe there wasn't a leak to begin with and it's slowly gotten worse over time.

CleanGrease's picture
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Joined: 06/30/2004

I have a test that needs to be done. When you are ready to switch to grease (the system is hot) instead of switching, purge (which pushes any bubbles back into the tank with the use of diesel, then switch to grease. Of course the amount of miles driven prior to seeing grease in the IP will be after the filter and grease line have been consumed in miles (perhaps as many as 15) then tell me how the car is acting. What I am thinking is that after shut-down, air is pulled into your line as the diesel drains back into the grease tank (diesel because you purged prior to shut-down). When you switch back to grease, an air bubble in the line is making its way back to the IP after about 10 miles. Remember, purgeing does not run diesel into the grease filter, but only back through the line and to the tank.

Check this out and then let me know if anything has changed.

Blevinsax's picture
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Joined: 10/06/2006

I had a very similar, very frustrating problem - I solved it, though! Turned out to be a tank-vent/vacuum-in-grease-tank problem. Here's a link to the thread with all the details:

http://www.greasecar.com/forum_topicview.cfm?frmtopicID=9985

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1991 350SD 216,000 miles B20/WVO GreaseCar
2001 VW Beetle TDI 62,000 miles B20/WVO GreaseCar
1994 Plymouth Grand Voyager 98,000 miles

For Jazz Saxophone enthusiasts - check out my website...
[url]www.RustyBlevins.com[/url]

FosilFool's picture
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Joined: 10/11/2004

Quote:
Originally posted by: Blevinsax
I had a very similar, very frustrating problem - I solved it, though! Turned out to be a tank-vent/vacuum-in-grease-tank problem. Here's a link to the thread with all the details:

http://www.greasecar.com/forum_topicview.cfm?frmtopicID=9985

-------------------------
1991 350SD 216,000 miles B20/WVO GreaseCar
2001 VW Beetle TDI 62,000 miles B20/WVO GreaseCar
1994 Plymouth Grand Voyager 98,000 miles

For Jazz Saxophone enthusiasts - check out my website...
[url]www.RustyBlevins.com[/url]
I wonder if thats why I only get only 1,000 miles out of my veg fiter Fleetguard FF5156? I follow the rules on filtering: Settle for 2-4 weeks, 24 hours of band heater dewatering. Running all 45 gal of oil thru a 1 micron filter after heating the oil for 2 hours. Crackel test.

Maybe my hoses are shot by the grease Tee. Got a new bronze tee from GreaseCar, just had to do an avalanche full of repairs to tha car 1st.

When I put my new Veg filter in I notice the IN hose has no veg oil ready to drip out. And the only way to get my filter out is on a vise with large chanell-lock pliers.

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Hiking out on the weather rail of environmental partnerships.

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