Stalling, Filtering, and EVERYTHING

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Hippie@Heart's picture
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Joined: 05/03/2009

So, I just bought a converted grease car...without even knowing how to drive it, I am progressively getting better at the art of stick shift...(VW thought it would be a good idea to put a clock on my car instead of a tachometer, thanks!)
So at any rate, I tend to stall at stop signs. I am supposed to run diesel for a mile or so before and after I stop so I'm wondering if it will mess of my car if I stall with it running on the veggie? I've only been doing this for a week and have yet to run it on Veggie oil, The man who sold it to me didn't say I had to filter the used oil before I put it in the tank being there is a filter under the hood, but I feel like I should. any suggestions?
I am moving to NY from FL in two weeks and my step dad insists to run it on diesel all the way there, I dis-agree and would much rather run it on Veggie.
All in all, any advice you grease car pioneers could give me would be super helpful to this green grease car gal. (pardon the pun)
Thanks for reading this novel of a post!

Love
Peace

-------------------------
~Christy

BrianMiller's picture
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Joined: 05/11/2006

the best advice is to read read and read more on this forum. oh and keep reading more.

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I use to be ForrestGump.., ,My BLOG,

Rif
Rif's picture
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Joined: 09/26/2006

I agree that reading here will help you much. The basic idea is to filter the WVO down to 1 micron. You can do this using filter bags or wound filter element.

rif

NJ_M715's picture
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Joined: 04/22/2006

Stalling shouldn't hurt, just restart it. I will leave mine parked on grease if I will be right back, like running into the post office or corner store. If it's going to be longer, I purge it out. The infopop site has some good beginer info. And the short answer is yes you need to filter ( and dewater ) the oil before you fill he tank. I would burn wvo to Fla. Just bring a spare filter and keep the dino tank topped off in case you need to switch. Filter as much oil as you can fit in the car before you leave home.

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http://veggear.blogspot.com/

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KirkH's picture
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Joined: 06/07/2008

Christy:

Filtering the grease is only half the battle. You also have to ensure there is no water in the grease. There are many methods for this, but essentially it is heating the oil, and letting it settle. Read, read, read. There is plenty of info on filtering and dewatering.

PM me if you have questions. Hippies need to stick together.

__________________

2002 Powerstroke Greasecar kit, 20 plate heat exchanger, water injection, Aeroforce Scan Gauge II, ISSPro fuel pressure, trans temp, boost and EGT gauges, Cyberdyne grease and coolant temperature gauges, auxilliary coolant pump, 282,000 miles, 82,000 on grease.&nbsp

Graplr's picture
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Joined: 03/10/2006

My advice is to get the car running as it should BEFORE you use any WVO in it.

If you don't do this you will have a tougher time tracking things down that go wrong and attributing it to the stock portion of the car or the wvo system in your car.

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1984 Mercedes 300SD Burnin' the grease....

MissoulaSVO's picture
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Joined: 02/01/2007

Ditto on the Reading and Reading some more. There's a ton of information out there - you could read all day every day for two weeks, and only scratch the surface of opinions, but you should need less than that to get you rolling.

I worry about what seemed to be implied in your post, that you seemed to have the impression that filtering before putting in your car was optional. I hope that's not what you were told. Considering that there is a whole subsection of this forum simply about filtering, you should have an idea of how important it is.

Somebody else said, you can either filter well before the oil goes into your car, or let the on board filter do it, but if you go that route, be prepared to spend a lot of money on on-board filters!

here's some good reading to get you started:

simple filtration rig:
http://www.greasecar.com/forum_topicview.cfm?frmtopicID=17622

Awesome filtration rig:
http://www.greasecar.com/forum_topicview.cfm?frmtopicID=19289

Return routing:
http://www.greasecar.com/forum_topicview.cfm?frmtopicID=7831

Read the link in brian miller's post to get you rolling, as well.

If I were you, going on that trip, I would see if I could find some folks in Ny and on the way who will sell you some oil. Check out their filtration setups and get ideas that way. I would not even start setting up a filtration setup until you get to fla - no sense in it. do it right, set it up to be permanent, in a place where spills will not be a problem.

one final thing - you will need to warm up and purge and run on diesel for longer than one mile. You should never switch to VO until your engine is fully up to temp. you also need to have vo at 150 degrees or so for it to work right. you need to purge for somewhere between 30 and 60 seconds (probably) and then it's usually a good idea to drive on diesel for a couple miles after that before shutdown.

good luck.

-------------------------
Now mister, the day when my number comes in, I ain't never gonna ride in no used car again.

Hippie@Heart's picture
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Joined: 05/03/2009

Wow guys, thanks so much for your help!
I am super overwhelmed as to how much goes into this, but I am confident that I can do it.
I have been reading, reading, reading!
I have also found someone near here that has filtered oil, for my super long trip...and I'm going to find other people along the way to hook it up for me.
When I get to NY I am going to make a sweet filter system.

So, I have 3 more questions...
1. Am I going to need anything different for my kit being my car was converted in tropical weather, and will now be functioning in freezing weather (I'll be near Canada!)
2.How can I tell when my car is hot enough to switch to veggie?
3.Anyone know about how long 15 gallons lasts on the highway and/or city?

Thanks again for all your suggestions, keep your fingers crossed for me!

Love
Peace

-------------------------
~Christy

KirkH's picture
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Joined: 06/07/2008

1. Am I going to need anything different for my kit being my car was converted in tropical weather, and will now be functioning in freezing weather (I'll be near Canada!)

If your car does not have a flat plate heat exchanger, you will want to add one. Plenty of info on the forums about FPHEs.

2.How can I tell when my car is hot enough to switch to veggie?

When your car has reached operating temperature, you switch to veg. Depending on your vehicle and weather, this could be between 5-20 miles of driving.

3.Anyone know about how long 15 gallons lasts on the highway and/or city?

Should be about the same mpg you get with diesel.

__________________

2002 Powerstroke Greasecar kit, 20 plate heat exchanger, water injection, Aeroforce Scan Gauge II, ISSPro fuel pressure, trans temp, boost and EGT gauges, Cyberdyne grease and coolant temperature gauges, auxilliary coolant pump, 282,000 miles, 82,000 on grease.&nbsp

sdwarf36's picture
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Joined: 11/22/2006

Quote:
Originally posted by: Hippie@Heart
Wow guys, thanks so much for your help!
I am super overwhelmed as to how much goes into this, but I am confident that I can do it.
I have been reading, reading, reading!
I have also found someone near here that has filtered oil, for my super long trip...and I'm going to find other people along the way to hook it up for me.
When I get to NY I am going to make a sweet filter system.

So, I have 3 more questions...
1. Am I going to need anything different for my kit being my car was converted in tropical weather, and will now be functioning in freezing weather (I'll be near Canada!)
2.How can I tell when my car is hot enough to switch to veggie?
3.Anyone know about how long 15 gallons lasts on the highway and/or city?

Thanks again for all your suggestions, keep your fingers crossed for me!

Love
Peace

-------------------------
~Christy
1. Unsure of what your car has in it (and only guessing that its a 85-92 jetta/golf ) but I'd say you need a flat plate heat exchanger (fphe) Its a small unit the has fuel going in+ out and hot water doing the same to get the oil warmer. Also a Vegtherm-an electric heater that goes in your fuel line. cost for both is about $250-$300. Also block off you radiator with a piece of cardboard in the cold weather-between those two I've driven with temps down to -10.
2. When your water temp gets to its normal range-and you have heat coming out of your heater, you're good.
3. My jetta gets 450-500 miles a tank. You wont get the last couple of gallons out of the tank-but your milage should be close to the same as on diesel. Fill it up-reset your trip odometer + see-when you feel the car start slowing + bogging, just switch to diesel-and you'll get what YOUR car will do.

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Give grease a chance

__________________

1991 Jetta -GC kit-greasing 80k miles

1996 Ford Powerstroke camper-homebuilt kit- 3k so far

Beckett burner furnace

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"Never throw away anything absorbent"

salty's picture
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Joined: 05/08/2006

I would strongly suggest you find a greae savvy mechanic near by and let he or she go over the system completely "with" you there so you'll have an understanding of what is going on. If you don't have a picture in your head, or a mechanical understanding of how the two fuel systems work you'll have trouble longer term.

If, the previous owner dumped dirty oil in the system you will want to clean the tank, replace veg filter etc. All things you'll want to know how to do. I might even suggest labeling the various lines, solenoids, etc.

If you are serious about grease you must accept that it's not without problems from time to time, be they clogged filters, air leaks etc. An good knowledge will get you through.

As for TDI's you'll find the folk here who are successful with them on wvo, as well as several who have failed at great expense. My sense from following all of this is that the cars are more demanding of temperature, clean oil etc, that a Cummins or Benz (for example).

Best of luck, and drive safe.