Hello All,
I'm still a newbie (~ 400 miles on WVO). I have a standard Greasecar kit with a '81 MZB 300D.
I understand for the kit to be working properly, the temp should be at least 120 degrees on WVO. Does it matter at what temperature I switch over? I've heard from some people as long as the engine temp gauge is 80 degrees, it's ok to switch. Another person told me my WVO temp gauge should be around 100 degrees to switch.
I've been watching the WVO temp gauge and it seems to do some strange things. It seems that when I get on the freeway, the temperature often goes down instead of up. Also, the temp seems to go up much more when I'm idling then when I'm driving. Is this normal?
I also just bought a FHPE. Is there any way to track the temperature on the line with this using the stock Greasecar temp gauge?
Thanks,
dkr
Airflow thru the radiator is cooling things-mine does the same thing.
Without any circulation of the veg oil, the temp changes slowly-it might get hot in some places (like the fphe) but no so much in the line. I have my temp gauge mounted just before the IP-that way I can tell what the temp of the oil is going into the motor. I switch over when the water temp gauge hits its normal running temp.
-------------------------
Give grease a chance
__________________
1991 Jetta -GC kit-greasing 80k miles
1996 Ford Powerstroke camper-homebuilt kit- 3k so far
Beckett burner furnace
http://www.uk-energy-saving.com/pure_plant_oil.gif
"Never throw away anything absorbent"
80 Celcius is 176 F. That's a good engine temp.
Have you installed your FPHE yet?
Where is your temp. gauge tee'd in?
I would not switch over to veg until I knew the engine was hot and the oil was atleast 120 before the mechanical pump/Injection Pump. However, an old Benz is more forgiving of colder WVO than a TDI.
I run a Greasecar temp. gauge in my Rabbit. Make sure the ground is tight to the sender for an accurate reading.
-------------------------
-Daren
'84 Rabbit "George" Greasecar System +FPHE
__________________
-Daren
'03 Jetta TDI
140k
Some suggestions: install an 82C thermostat (180F), a MB aux water pump to get the hottest engine coolant to a large (26 plate) FPHE; a temp sensor on the VO side of the FPHE. Switch over to VO when the engine temp is above 170F to be safe. An engine that is not up to operating temp will allow VO to get behind the piston rings and cook till it turns into very hard carbon. At that stage the rings will freeze and over time the engine will eventually loose compression. Below a certain amount of compression, a diesel will not start. My '80 MB 300D is up to 170F in 5 to 6 miles when I switch over to VO with air temp in the 40's. I also have a HOH to supply heat to the in-tank HE and aluminum fuel pickup. I use one sensor for the coolant temp and a second gauge to monitor the VO temp. I like to know what's going on under the hood.
__________________
Quote:
Originally posted by: 1984George
80 Celcius is 176 F. That's a good engine temp.
Have you installed your FPHE yet?
Where is your temp. gauge tee'd in?
I would not switch over to veg until I knew the engine was hot and the oil was atleast 120 before the mechanical pump/Injection Pump. However, an old Benz is more forgiving of colder WVO than a TDI.
I run a Greasecar temp. gauge in my Rabbit. Make sure the ground is tight to the sender for an accurate reading.
-------------------------
-Daren
'84 Rabbit "George" Greasecar System +FPHE
No, I just received it by mail today. I'll take a look at it over the weekend.
I've never gotten the temp to 120 degrees before switching, except for perhaps on a very hot day (90+ degrees outside). Is this normal for a Greasecar kit?
Dkr.
Quote:
Originally posted by: 1984George
80 Celcius is 176 F. That's a good engine temp.
Have you installed your FPHE yet?
Where is your temp. gauge tee'd in?
I would not switch over to veg until I knew the engine was hot and the oil was atleast 120 before the mechanical pump/Injection Pump. However, an old Benz is more forgiving of colder WVO than a TDI.
I run a Greasecar temp. gauge in my Rabbit. Make sure the ground is tight to the sender for an accurate reading.
-------------------------
-Daren
'84 Rabbit "George" Greasecar System +FPHE
The temp gauge from what I understand is coming from the aux fuel tank.
Dkr.
Quote:
Originally posted by: Rene de Lathauwer
Some suggestions: install an 82C thermostat (180F), a MB aux water pump to get the hottest engine coolant to a large (26 plate) FPHE; a temp sensor on the VO side of the FPHE. Switch over to VO when the engine temp is above 170F to be safe. An engine that is not up to operating temp will allow VO to get behind the piston rings and cook till it turns into very hard carbon. At that stage the rings will freeze and over time the engine will eventually loose compression. Below a certain amount of compression, a diesel will not start. My '80 MB 300D is up to 170F in 5 to 6 miles when I switch over to VO with air temp in the 40's. I also have a HOH to supply heat to the in-tank HE and aluminum fuel pickup. I use one sensor for the coolant temp and a second gauge to monitor the VO temp. I like to know what's going on under the hood.
Do you use a 26-plate FHPE in your 300D? I was under the impression that these were mainly for larger vehicles such as the F150 and Chevy trucks.
I always switch over after the engine temp is over 176deg F (80 deg C). Is this what most people do -- go by the engine temp and not what the greasecar temp gauge is saying?
Is the aux water pump something that is made stock for the cars or is it a 3rd party add-on for WVO systems?
Thanks,
Dkr.
Quote:
Originally posted by: dkr
Quote:
Originally posted by: 1984George
80 Celcius is 176 F. That's a good engine temp.
Have you installed your FPHE yet?
Where is your temp. gauge tee'd in?
I would not switch over to veg until I knew the engine was hot and the oil was atleast 120 before the mechanical pump/Injection Pump. However, an old Benz is more forgiving of colder WVO than a TDI.
I run a Greasecar temp. gauge in my Rabbit. Make sure the ground is tight to the sender for an accurate reading.
-------------------------
-Daren
'84 Rabbit "George" Greasecar System +FPHE
The temp gauge from what I understand is coming from the aux fuel tank.
Dkr.
I think a 16 Plate FPHE would be fine for a Benz. Just remember that however big it is, it's giving you some extra heat so you're on the right track.
When you get the FPHE on, you should really tee in your temp. gauge after that. Right before the mechanical pump or Injection Pump would be considered "best practice". Then you know how hot it is when it hits a running engine at a safe operating temperature.
The veggie oil might read colder temps if it's not teed in before additional heat sources like the veg filter and fphe.
-------------------------
-Daren
'84 Rabbit "George" Greasecar System +FPHE
__________________
-Daren
'03 Jetta TDI
140k
You should have your fuel temp gauge sending unit as close to the IP as you can get. Because this will give you the TRUE temp of the fuel (diesel / WVO) that is just about to go into the IP. If the temp is low for a long time (low as in outside temp) then your running diesel. If the temp climbs high your running wvo.
After you install the FPHE, your going to see higher temps. But it's also a good idea to insulate all the fuel and radator hoses with pipe insulation from your favorite hardware store.
Keep asking questions, people on this site are great.
-------------------------
Michael R. Mullins
Professional Greasecar Installer
www.austingreenconversions.com
Austin TX
Quote:
Originally posted by: latitude500
You should have your fuel temp gauge sending unit as close to the IP as you can get. Because this will give you the TRUE temp of the fuel (diesel / WVO) that is just about to go into the IP. If the temp is low for a long time (low as in outside temp) then your running diesel. If the temp climbs high your running wvo.
After you install the FPHE, your going to see higher temps. But it's also a good idea to insulate all the fuel and radator hoses with pipe insulation from your favorite hardware store.
Keep asking questions, people on this site are great.
-------------------------
Michael R. Mullins
Professional Greasecar Installer
www.austingreenconversions.com
Austin TX
Thanks for letting me know the lower temps are always diesel. I would always cringe at switching over before 80 degrees on the GC temp gauge even though the engine was at running temp, but the temp would always jump to 100+ in 30 seconds and then gradually to 120-150 degrees.
I just got my 16-plate FHPE and am searching for a few plumbing parts. I'll put it in next week and report back on the difference in running temps.
Dkr.
if you're getting 120-150 this time of the year-you're doing ok.
-------------------------
Give grease a chance
__________________
1991 Jetta -GC kit-greasing 80k miles
1996 Ford Powerstroke camper-homebuilt kit- 3k so far
Beckett burner furnace
http://www.uk-energy-saving.com/pure_plant_oil.gif
"Never throw away anything absorbent"
Shopping cart
Greasecar Kits and Products
Search
User login



I forgot to mention. My t-stat appears to do the same thing. It jumps to 95 degrees or so when idle and then drops to 80-90 when running.
dkr