When showing Veggie-auto on the co-pilot seems to still be burning diesel?
August 4, 2012 - 6:13pm
Hello -
Stats:2003 VW bug tdi 1.9L
I put a clear tubing on the veggie line and the input line into the IP and the color was the same when running in either mode?
I check the solenoids for power going to either and off when switching to the diesel from veggie.
I replaced the solenoid on the supply side just to see if it would make a change? Same thing.
This all started because "air" was getting into veggie fuel line and would eventually build up and then stall the vehicle out on the veggie side.
Air seems to be still getting into the veggiefuel side ?
Any ideas? All the plumbing is correct?
Electrical is switching the solenoids?
Thanks ...
August 5, 2012 - 2:09am
#2
VeggieFuel1:
A quick way to check if the solenoid spool is moving up then down: - energize the solenoid with 12 VDC; the top of the coil should produce a magnetic field and will pull a small nail toward it. When the 12 volts is shut off, there should be no magnatism thus no attraction to the nail. The engine noise might make it hard to hear the spool "click" or feel it move up or down with the engine at idle.
August 5, 2012 - 11:39am
#3
Thanks for the information.
I will try your suggestions.
Out side of your suggestions I also have another question. Have sv100 ever stuck ?
I am wondering if the return line in veggie mode is actually sucking in the diesel because of a clog in the WVO fuel line?
Thanks -
August 5, 2012 - 11:40am
#4
I like the nail idea ... I will try that also... btw.. was in Austin in May....
August 5, 2012 - 4:11pm
#5
The engine noise might make it hard to hear the spool "click" or feel it move up or down with the engine at idle.
An energized coil with magnetic field only shown the coil is energized. It cannot tell the switching of the valve.
The "Click" is the movement of the valve. The valve can stuck (without "Click") with energized coil.
You can check the soleniods and valves operation without running the engine.
Just key on then switch to different modes with the co-pilot with the help of another hand.
Have sv100 ever stuck ?
Yes.
If valve A stuck in the de-energized postion you would burn diesel in veggie mode and diesel would be return back
to the veggie tank and hence your veggie fuel gauge would move up.
I am wondering if the return line in veggie mode is actually sucking in the diesel because of a clog in the WVO fuel line?
Not likely possible if your plumbing connections are correct.
August 9, 2012 - 7:08pm
#6
Well... here is the update:
I replaced all the engine fuel lines. I went from the viton lined to the normal. The viton lined were too flimsy. Replaced the supply side solenoid. Used a volt meter to check both switches on and off ... also using the vibration method. I also flushed for 90 seconds. Everything looked normal there except the diesel flush seemed to have a lot of small bubbles coming out into the vo tank. I think I am going to replace the return valve as it seems that it is all boiling down to the return valve showing bubbles and I think this may be the cause (somehow)? Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks...
August 9, 2012 - 7:12pm
#7
Just read the sticky valve options... the only thing I have not tested is the continuity.... I'll be doing this too.
Step Four: Check the solenoid coil for continuity. The internal piston of the solenoid is driven into it’s energized
position using a coil. This coil is what the two leads of the valve connect to. Using the multi-meter, test for continuity
between the two terminals. While continuity between the two terminals indicates an operating coil, an open
circuit would indicate a faulty coil.
August 9, 2012 - 8:56pm
#8
Everything looked normal there except the diesel flush seemed to have a lot of small bubbles coming out into the vo tank.
Since you replaced all fuel lines there will be some air in the system. A 90 seconds purge would not
be able to get rid of all the air in the system. Actually you have to drive it for a while, may be a couple of
days, with several diesel/veggie/purge cycles to get rid of all the air. Don't worry about those bubbles if
everything looked normal. Just keep driving it for a couple of days and see..........
the only thing I have not tested is the continuity....
Everthing looked normal there = diesel mode + veggie mode + purge mode all good
= Soleniod valves A and B operate normally
= Coil A and B are good, have continuity
If you can feel the "CLICK" with your hand while turning it on or if it works with the little nail method
then there is no need to check for continuity.
If the above methods failed then you would like to check power to coil, the coil to gound and
the continuity of the coil.
Even though you check all of the above and it works there is still one thing you are not sure.
The valve could be reluctant to move, partially sticky and do not move all the way with an energized coil.
To check for this you can blow air in the COM port. When not energized all air should come out
from NO port and no air at all come out from the NC port. When energized all air should come out
from the NC port and no air at all come out from the NO port.
BTW sticking valve would not introduce air into the fuel system.
August 9, 2012 - 9:53pm
#9
How long after switch over are you looking at clear line ? The vo line is full of d2 after a flush . The smaller engines don't burn much fuel at idle. And with return loop it could take many miles of driving to see a change in fuel color. Every flush puts more d2 in bottom of tank. A good long drive then check line and smell exhaust.
August 10, 2012 - 9:23am
#10
Every flush puts more d2 in bottom of tank.
True if the purge is too long.
A perfect purge would be just long enough to get rid of veggie in the system so that there would be
no white smoke in the next start. Time of purge depends on when would be the next start (cold/warm/hot).
Or if you want to purge your veggie filter (GC set up), the purge is just long enough to purge back to
the veggie filter and NOT back into the veggie tank.
You can set the time of purge so that it wouldn't purge back all the way back to the veggie tank.
On my first greasecar 91 Jetta I used to install a see through filter before the IP. Once I changed
the filter there was a lot of air trapped in the filter, more then half of the filter. There was no effect
on operation. It tooks days of drive to get rid of most of the trapped air. There was still some air
trapped in the highest position of the filter even at the next filter change.
So once the system is open there would be some air trapped inside somewhere and hard to get rid of it.
It would not affect the normal operation.
August 11, 2012 - 2:43pm
#11
The original issue was that after a while of driving on WVO the car would stall out and stop either coming down a hill or up a hill. I believe the reason was that air was getting in the wvo fuel lines somewhere and building up until there was so much in the line that the air then traveled to the IP when the car went downhill or uphill.
Any thoughts ?
Thanks ...
August 11, 2012 - 4:52pm
#12
I believe the reason was that air was getting in the wvo fuel lines somewhere and building up until there was so much in the line that the air then traveled to the IP when the car went downhill or uphill.
Any thoughts ?
So now you have new lines and new supply valve and made sure all connections are tight
and there would be no more air get in the system. It is very unlikely for air to get in the system
from the return side which is under pressure. No needs to replace the return valve.
The bubbles you noticed returning to the veggie tank will eventually disappear.
Just keep on greasing.
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I check the solenoids for power going to either and off when switching to the diesel from veggie.
Electrical is switching the solenoids?
First make sure you are running on diesel when you are on diesel mode. Both soleniods are not energized.
Then make sure the ground side of both soleniods are grounded.
When switched to veggie mode make sure the following:
There is battery power at both solenoids.
Feel "Click" with hand on vales while energizing soleniods.
So make sure soleniods are energized and valves click (switch positions).
When switched to purge mode valve A should be de-energized and valve B still energized.
This all started because "air" was getting into veggie fuel line and would eventually build up and then stall the vehicle out on the veggie side.
Air seems to be still getting into the veggiefuel side ?
Try to check and make sure all your fuel line connection are tight, from the veggie tank to veggie filter to valves to IP etc.
Do a long purge to push all the air back into the veggie tank, then switch to veggie mode to see...........
All the plumbing is correct?
You should know better than me. Base on your posted info I cannot tell.
Was everything working correctly before you have this problem?
If yes, I would say the plumbing is correct.
__________________
'05 Cummins CTD 24V HPCR RAM 2500 QC SLT SB Black 4X4 48RE 325 hp 610 ft.lbs
GC Kit + 3rd Tank WVO(80%)/RUG(20%) + Co-Pilot
3-Tank Operation managed by Co-Pilot: Blending(warm up) / Veggie(hot run) / Diesel(purge for next start)
Smarty Jr 40/70/100 hp (Timing Map Modification)