A turnkey centrifuge for $200?????
Yes, not a problem to pay $50 extra for the nylon rotor. I'd rather have the extra strength....
Nylon would be a much better because safer choice.
Aside from the above: My friend and I are each about to purchase a commercially produced centrifuge. Since we would be buying two of them we are getting them for $500/each. Each centrifuge holds 600CC (equals about 20 ounces) of dirt. They are commercially produced units specifically made for the use on Biodiesel/Vegetable oil (they come with Viton seals/gaskets etc.) and no they are not the incredibly expensive Dieselcraft ones.
Why am I writing this? When I saw blhfla's concept I liked it due to the price but now it has gone up to almost the price of a what I call a "plug and play" model (i.e. the type of centrifuge we are about to buy).
I know I am making an assumption now but the $430-$450 blhfla's concept is going to cost (still) does not seem to be the the end of the rope. In addition to that it still will require major additional manufacturing, time and funds.
WVO/SVO is messy to deal with so the centrifuge set up needs to be done right, no matter if it is self-made or commercially produced and that can't be done very cheap. At least that's what I think.
We still haven't placed our order. If someone has a good argument for me why to rather get a self made unit (blhfla's concept) please post it.
Thanks!
"Engineer"..., in your case I would suggest do whatever makes you happy. My guess is that would be to purchase your special $500 centrifuge with your "friend" and be done with it. You mentioned your preference for using Chinese manufacturing, perhaps they can build one for you to your liking. All that "safety crap" about lead paint toys, tainted food, exploding tires, that was probably all just coincidence ;-)
-------------------------
85 MB 300D auto, 225k miles. Plantdrive kit @ 207.5k miles. SOLD
97 VW Passat TDI 5spd, 230k miles, Sprint520s, RC3, VR6 5 lug 15" wheel conversion, VR6 clutch, .658 5th, R1 Concepts slotted/drilled rotors, 2500 watt sound, Plantdrive kit @215k miles.
blhfla I was hoping for a more professional answer (maybe someone else has one?)
I don't have a "preference for using Chinese manufacturing" (where did I write that?) The company I work for is having filterheads made there.
Aside from the above I have been trying to save you from a LOT of legal trouble in connection with aspects associated with a failing product.
UHMW would have been a BAD CHOICE! Like it or not. Nylon is a (much) better choice though still not perfect (don't worry, I am not going to go in to detail about the why)
Regarding your statement:
"All that "safety crap" about lead paint toys, tainted food, exploding tires, that was probably all just coincidence"
How would you like this one instead?>>>
"All that "safety crap" about breaking rotors, injured customers, exploding equipment, that was probably all just coincidence"
But why do I care?
Good luck!
blhfla,
I am interested in a system that is durable over a wide range of operating conditions. I like the idea of using Nylon.
__________________
Engineer,
Care to enlighten us on who you will be purchasing from?
thanks!
blhfla,
I couldn't help asking around all the machinists and engineers here at work (we have a slew of them).
It looks like Nylon only gets you to 200 degrees (vs. 180 for UHMW). Also, some of the engineers suggested that at quantities of over 60 like you seem to have, you should consider paying the upfront to get a mold and injection mold the bowl. They tell me that would be cost beneficial.
I am still in either way, just trying to add to the conversation.
Respectfully, I wish that you would go into more specifics, especially from the start. The issue that we're all having with your post's Engineer, is that you are being too cyrptic.
Granted, no one is asking you to reveal your identity or where you work; but as of late, the moment you seem to start making a point, you also seem to trail off at the end.
(e.g. "All I have are technical bulletins and material data sheets with lots of calculations and test results from who I work for and I cannot post nor email those.") Fine, then please direct everyone to some comparative information from an outside source, regarding the properties of UHMW.
Then there's, ("My friend and I are each about to purchase a commercially produced centrifuge. Since we would be buying two of them we are getting them for $500/each".) What centrifuge or rather who makes it?
You see, this is the kind of information that everyone needs to make an informed decision. So, if you or anyone has any information that is of value to blhfla with regards to the final product, then please provide the forum with the rational which favors one material over the other, rather saying that it either won't work, or that you won't go into specifics. Thank You.
Davo53209 the results I have been referring to concerning the use of UHMW in a centrifuge application are company internal lab results. You will understand that I cannot post those nor is there a link available. It has nothing to do with secrecy but I understand where you and others are coming from.
Since I don't build nor sell centrifuges myself I have done my due diligence and am buying a Industrial manufactured centrifuge just like everybody else does. Cost and especially material used has been an important factor and since the price for blhfla's unit has gone up close to a level where I can buy a centrifuge which is a proven and reliable unit then that's what I'll do.
I don't want to disclose who I am buying it from since I don't want anybody here thinking I am trying to divert business away from blhfla.
One more thing:
Nobody so far has made a comment about why UHMW nor Nylon is being used in an Industrial manufactured Oil related centrifuge.
As I wrote a few posts back: Manufacturers WOULD use plastics if they were suitable. The last should convince everybody, do your own re-search to find out and don't rely on what others described as my "secrecy".
"I don't want to disclose who I am buying it from since I don't want anybody here thinking I am trying to divert business away from blhfla. "
Fair enough...could you maybe suggest a way to contact you offline from this forum? I don't think you are trying to divert business away from blhfla, but I do want to have the best solution possible.
Quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by: geodad
"I don't want to disclose who I am buying it from since I don't want anybody here thinking I am trying to divert business away from blhfla. "
Fair enough...could you maybe suggest a way to contact you offline from this forum? I don't think you are trying to divert business away from blhfla, but I do want to have the best solution possible.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sure. You can send an email to:
y3kspy AT Hotmail.com
The above is my sons email account.
Who ever may be sending an email to that account please write respectfully, my kid is only 10 years old and he could see the email before I do. All that "just in case", I have seen it all!
Thanks.
Oh puhhhhhhhhhhhlease, you're a smart guy, or so you tell us, why would you put your 10 year olds e-mail on a public forum. You already know not to put @ so you should be able to get a trash email account. Your familiar with hotmail, check and see if secretengineer@hotmail.com is taken.
Can anyone else say shill
Hey, your product sucks but the one I'm getting is better and just a little more money. Hey everyone, your in luck, I haven't put my order in yet. You can all jump on board, here's my e-mail address.
Not on your life would I give $500 to a guy like this.
60 X $500 = $30,000.
Not bad for a quick hoax, huh
-------------------------
1994 Chev Suburban 6.5 diesel. Purchased with 162,000 miles. Installed GreaseCar kit. Now has 208,000 miles. Relocated PMD to air filter box.
"My grandfather rode a horse. My father drove a car. I flew a jet-plane. My son will ride a horse."
Just a reply to FastCote's suggestion of having a mold made...If the mold is extremely well made it might work but any irregularities would cause problems with balancing the bowl.
Machining poses less of a problem with balancing issues.
Just my 2 cents
__________________
DAMN! we have one serious great guy(bruce and his friends) trying to help us, doing great job developing a centrifuge ;)
please "engineer" go away!!!
we don't need guys like you, go home and sell your scam to your friends and family instead
check if one of these are avalable
fake_engineer@hotmail
scam_engineer@hotmail
scamguy@hotmail
just blowing off some steam, sorry everyone else
keep up the good work bruce ;)
Engineer - Please start a new thread on the device you are referring to here on the WVO Filtration discussion or another WVO forum if you truly feel uncomfortable about posting it here .
http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/ ,
http://www.burnveg.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=5&sid=10ccf1a3e134e6b82fb7c...
http://frybrid.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=9 ,
Many of us would like know what else is currently available beyond the Cbs, Dieselcraft,Spinclean, SpinnerII,Filterfuge fluid driven CFs and Simple CF . It is my opinion that Blhfla's finished product will be a great value regardless of the competition .
__________________
Hey, "Engineer":
I see you just registered for this forum this month, and now you say you are already buying a centrifuge. Wow, that's some quick progress for a newbie. So tell us, how has a smart guy like you filtered your grease so far? How long do yout settle it? Do you use salt? What temperature do you bring your grease to during settling? Does your car have one tank, or two? What year, make and model car do you have? How often do you change filters? What kind of filter do you use, both during processing and on the road? Do you add heat, or do you rely on coolant heat? What's your switchover temp? Do you have a manufactured kit, or is it a DIY assembly? Is is HIH or HOH? What's your purge time? Do you use copper lines and fittings, or some other material? (You seem to know a lot about materials, so I assume your system is state of the art.) What kind of valves do you use? What arrangements have you made to collect grease? How do you process it? How long have you been greasing?
Most important, do you have any idea whatsoever what the hell I am asking?
In other words, what brings you to this community, hmmmmm?
Inquiring minds want to know.
For some inexplicable reason, the word "troll" comes to mind.
Jim
-------------------------
It's the only planet we have, folks; treat it kindly.
blhfla,
My vote is for safety first. As long as your catch basin with lid are strong enough the withstand the rotor coming apart, then we can test the nylon or UHMW and if it comes apart, just replace the rotor or come up with an alternative rotor. My concern is if a rotor comes apart, what kind of damage/injury it could cause if the outside container is not strong enough to contain the flying parts of the rotor. I don't envision having to heat the oil to more than 120-130 F, so if that does not cause a problem, I'm down with either nylon or UHMW.
Just my 2 cents.
Again, thanks for all your hard work and please feel free to ask if there is any way I can be of assistance.
-------------------------
1999 E300TD With Greasecar Kit
I don't need to pretend to be something I'm not.
I signed up on this board trying to add my expertise. If you like my input - take it. If you don't like it or agree with it please continue with what ever you may think or plan to do.
We all are free to think and do what we want.
Thanks.
?
-------------------------
1994 mercedes c250d
2x lister cs (1950s)
1994 2.4 vw transporter
1984 ford transit 2.0 petrol automatic -why?-i do not know
Add me to the list, I'll even pick it up since im in FL
Quote:
Originally posted by: JimNorman
Hey, "Engineer":
I see you just registered for this forum this month, and now you say you are already buying a centrifuge. Wow, that's some quick progress for a newbie. So tell us, how has a smart guy like you filtered your grease so far? How long do yout settle it? Do you use salt? What temperature do you bring your grease to during settling? Does your car have one tank, or two? What year, make and model car do you have? How often do you change filters? What kind of filter do you use, both during processing and on the road? Do you add heat, or do you rely on coolant heat? What's your switchover temp? Do you have a manufactured kit, or is it a DIY assembly? Is is HIH or HOH? What's your purge time? Do you use copper lines and fittings, or some other material? (You seem to know a lot about materials, so I assume your system is state of the art.) What kind of valves do you use? What arrangements have you made to collect grease? How do you process it? How long have you been greasing?
Most important, do you have any idea whatsoever what the hell I am asking?
In other words, what brings you to this community, hmmmmm?
Inquiring minds want to know.
For some inexplicable reason, the word "troll" comes to mind.
Jim
-------------------------
It's the only planet we have, folks; treat it kindly.
Uhh.. I'm more imporessed with the part about being able to 'share his expertise' etc. but that he has to use his 10 year old's e-mail account? Last time I signed up for a Hotmail account or a Yahoo acct. it took me longer to find a unique screen name than to fill out the sign up form out.
"Engineer".. me thinks not.
back to topic
blhfla, any updates? Getting itchy to spin some oil!!
Quote:
Originally posted by: FastCote
back to topic
blhfla, any updates? Getting itchy to spin some oil!!
YES! BUT..... I have been VERY busy and am physically exhausted (it's now after 1 AM) and tomorrow I have to replace a buddy's alternator on an 03 Jetta TDI (while simultaneously 'working' for my employer, albeit from home), a bit of a PITA but I promised him.......... and he needs his car.
So late tomorrow I will give a detailed update, but here's a condensed preview. The lab results are back but somewhat inconclusive because my source oil had no water content to begin with. However the CF proved successful in cleaning the oil. Also we have an 11" diameter "chunk o' nylon" on the way for a new (improved) rotor. I will explain in detail tomorrow (I guess that would actually be later today, really). Man, sometimes life can be demanding. Time for bed.
-------------------------
85 MB 300D auto, 225k miles. Plantdrive kit @ 207.5k miles. SOLD
97 VW Passat TDI 5spd, 230k miles, Sprint520s, RC3, VR6 5 lug 15" wheel conversion, VR6 clutch, .658 5th, R1 Concepts slotted/drilled rotors, 2500 watt sound, Plantdrive kit @215k miles.
make sure your family is on board with all these hours you are devoting...
Hi blhfla,
I registered just for this centrifuge.
Count me in for one, please!
I can't wait and good luck.
Yes, I would be interested. How does a centrifuge seperate the wvo from the water? How big is the system? Would it work on board a shuttlebus/RV? Can it turn with an electric motor or a belt from the engine?
blhfla ChuckDubDubDub Greaseburger BrianMiller GuitarGerber
grindMARC new2greas Rif JimNorman bodycounter
FosilFool walter2 seadog brp VeggyPig
MISJeff praycha 5cylturbojeep marshall2u Hathy2
Pedrokep Abreojos syscokid(X2) DURAMAXLB7 jm686
wrapreynolds salty Pacifico xeus(X2) Pyrate(X2)
lonola Drippy jerrymaki Graplr cestes
Gadget111 smid87 dieselonly BobbyPollard TomatoBug
dieselbouy Nick mrbeavin yeshua73 Davo53209
mantajohan bkfran69 dcwier1 svego NEboy
kb2tha geodad REguy campbell sweetjeep
FastCote MikeT Hotwheelbill JettoFunk dilator
65. Sorry for the late update, but I'm still trying to catch up, as Sammy H. says, "One step ahead one step behind, now you gotta run to get even". (Right Now, For Unlawful Carnal Knowledge, Van Halen, Warner Brothers Records Inc., a Time Warner Company, C1991)................. It must be getting late.
OK, so here are the details. I knew my source oil supply was pretty decent, but I did not know it had no detectable water, not even trace. Consequently, our sample test runs did not determine water removal efficiency as there was none to remove. Also, the source was so dirty that no baseline could be measured for particulate (the lab said it was TOO dirty). Go figure, NO water but VERY dirty. Filters usually use a percentage rating system, as described below, from www.filtrationtips.com:
****Snip****
"What does industry consider the standard in regards to filter efficiency? When I hear that a filter is rated at 1 micron, does that mean it is 100 percent efficient at that micron size?"
Filter ratings are an often misunderstood area of contamination control. The most commonly used rating is the Beta ratio, which is defined as the ratio of the number of particles upstream of the test filter versus the number downstream, greater than a given size. Using the Beta ratio, a 3 micron filter with a Beta 75 rating, will have on average 75 particles larger than 3 micron upstream of the filter for every one 3 micron or greater particle.
The efficiency of the filter can be calculated directly from the beta ratio since the % efficiency is simply (beta-1)/beta x 100. A beta 75, 3-micron filter is thus said to be 98.66% efficient at removing 3 micron and larger particles. It is important to note that a change in the beta rating from 75 to 200 at the same micron rating represents an increase of less than 1% in efficiency, but the beta 200 filter is more than 3 times more effective at removing 3 micron and larger particles than the beta 75 filter.
****Snip****
Since our source sample was so dirty the lab could not get a particle count, we have no baseline to measure the processed particle count to and get an efficiency percentage rating. Although the test summary stated, "No moisture was found and insolubles were present at just a trace level. Filtering this oil certainly cleaned it up.", indicating positive results, the test did not ultimately measure the efficiency at water and particle removal as no relative source comparison was available.
So, what now? Well, first we want to try the new nylon rotor because it will be 11 inches in diameter (OD), so the ID will be 10 to 10.5 inches (at the machinists discretion), providing more centrifugal force (compared to out test rotor with 10 inch OD) and better filtering capability. We want to go with the best we've got and our ultimately production design. Second, we'll try to get a 5(?) micron filter to run comparative test samples on so we can correlate the results (to a filter). I doubt most onboard filters are finer than 5 micron (too restrictive) so this should be sufficient for comparative results. Lastly, I will try to get a "watery" oil source to use; if anyone near Tampa has a known watery oil source available please let me know.
So our tests produced good positive results but not as conclusive as desired. We'll try again, with an improved rotor and hopefully better oil samples for testing purposes. I hope to have this (and more conclusive results) by mid month.
-------------------------
85 MB 300D auto, 225
Quote:
Originally posted by: shuttlebus
Yes, I would be interested. How does a centrifuge seperate the wvo from the water? How big is the system? Would it work on board a shuttlebus/RV? Can it turn with an electric motor or a belt from the engine?
Check these photos and descriptions:
http://s279.photobucket.com/albums/kk138/blhfla/
Onboard filtering should be possible (if you can provide 110V, perhaps with an inverter), but I wouldn't attempt it "underway" (in motion). The water is separated just as the particulate, centrifugal force causes the heavier particulate and water to "flow" to the outer walls of the rotor where they are "trapped". The (cleaned) oil eventually "flows" over the top of the rotor and is captured at the bottom of the basin.
-------------------------
85 MB 300D auto, 225k miles. Plantdrive kit @ 207.5k miles. SOLD
97 VW Passat TDI 5spd, 230k miles, Sprint520s, RC3, VR6 5 lug 15" wheel conversion, VR6 clutch, .658 5th, R1 Concepts slotted/drilled rotors, 2500 watt sound, Plantdrive kit @215k miles.
Im interested $2k is too much..
Been looking for a centrifuge system and came across this thing you are trying to build here but man Dude your price hase gone up quiet a bit, it is not a turn key system involving a lot of follow up fabrication and additional $$ after the initial purchase plus someone who seems to know what he is talking about is saying your choice of material is not a good one.
Even if Engineer is wrong what convinces me to stay away from this is as was mentioned earlier there is a reason why no plastics are being used for commercially produced centrifuge rotors.
I wish all you guys with nothing but negative comments would find another place.
It took me five seconds of googling to find plastics ARE used in high speed, spinning applications.
here is one that is patented:
http://patft.uspto.gov/netacgi/nph-Parser?Sect1=PTO2&Sect2=HITOFF&u=%2Fn...
OK, I havent been on the boards for a while but since i am a somewhat interested bystander i gotta say a couple of things.
First of all, To "Greasemaster" You are an obvious shill. You joined minutes ago and have made one post which basically says, "OK Guys, even if engineer is wrong i still believe him" Nice try
Second to Fastcote: Be careful of the references you cite to prove a point. The application you cited was for a DISPOSABLE centrifuge rotor bowl. Disposable implying short term use then a new one put in, which is exactly what Engineer was alluding to. The bowl may work for a while then it will drift off true and there might be bad results at that point.
Me personally, I am on the fence with the whole thing. I am still listed as a potential customer, but i definitely dont want to be one of the first run. By that time, i just might have moved to a new city where proximity to my job no longer makes greasing feasible.
So I will stay listed for now, but I do agree with Fastcote in paraphrase in that if you dont have something good to say, then either back it up with verifiable documentation or dont say anything.
I am pretty sure that Greasecar did not intend for their forum to become the latest revision of Mad magazine SPY vs SPY
Good luck
Lee
-------------------------
Novelty+Economy+Environment= NEE.....
I am a Knight that says NEE
__________________________________________
NoName - 2002 Jetta TDI - Greasecar setup - RC2 - Rocki Mod
Quote:
Originally posted by: FastCote
I wish all you guys with nothing but negative comments would find another place.
It took me five seconds of googling to find plastics ARE used in high speed, spinning applications.
here is one that is patented:
http://patft.uspto.gov/netacgi/nph-Parser?Sect1=PTO2&Sect2=HITOFF&u=%2Fn...
Interesting.
Now if you can find one which has been patented for the use with heat and vegetable oil post it as well.
Quote:
Originally posted by: bodycounter
OK, I havent been on the boards for a while but since i am a somewhat interested bystander i gotta say a couple of things.
First of all, To "Greasemaster" You are an obvious shill. You joined minutes ago and have made one post which basically says, "OK Guys, even if engineer is wrong i still believe him" Nice try
Second to Fastcote: Be careful of the references you cite to prove a point. The application you cited was for a DISPOSABLE centrifuge rotor bowl. Disposable implying short term use then a new one put in, which is exactly what Engineer was alluding to. The bowl may work for a while then it will drift off true and there might be bad results at that point.
Me personally, I am on the fence with the whole thing. I am still listed as a potential customer, but i definitely dont want to be one of the first run. By that time, i just might have moved to a new city where proximity to my job no longer makes greasing feasible.
So I will stay listed for now, but I do agree with Fastcote in paraphrase in that if you dont have something good to say, then either back it up with verifiable documentation or dont say anything.
I am pretty sure that Greasecar did not intend for their forum to become the latest revision of Mad magazine SPY vs SPY
Good luck
Lee
-------------------------
Novelty+Economy+Environment= NEE.....
I am a Knight that says NEE
__________________________________________
NoName - 2002 Jetta TDI - Greasecar setup - RC2 - Rocki Mod
Shill? lol I have been reading this Forum for a while, no need to be a member to do so.
If you wanna post you have to sign up and that's what I did.
Anyway as you stated yourself:
"Second to Fastcote: Be careful of the references you cite to prove a point. The application you cited was for a DISPOSABLE centrifuge rotor bowl. Disposable implying short term use then a new one put in, which is exactly what Engineer was alluding to. The bowl may work for a while then it will drift off true and there might be bad results at that point."
Whether I am new to THIS board or not does not change the fact there are NO plastics used for rotors in commercially produced centrifuges used for engine oil or vegetable oil as in this case.
O.K., I got to put my foot in the fire too.
As for me reading ALL of this, thank all of you for your post and info.......but, unless you can say you have stepped up to the plate and built your own centrifuge, FROM SCRATCH (WITH ANY TYPE OF ANYTHING) , list your info for what it is, someone elses results. Forget all of the, "I know this guy" "I know a friend of a Engineer" "My wife said". If you have not done it , you don't know anymore than the rest of use that have not!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
-------------------------
Just keep'n my money where it belongs.......MY WALLET!
blhfla ChuckDubDubDub Greaseburger BrianMiller GuitarGerber
grindMARC new2greas Rif JimNorman bodycounter
FosilFool walter2 seadog brp VeggyPig
MISJeff praycha 5cylturbojeep marshall2u Hathy2
Pedrokep Abreojos syscokid(X2) DURAMAXLB7 jm686
wrapreynolds salty Pacifico xeus(X2) Pyrate(X2)
lonola Drippy jerrymaki Graplr cestes
Gadget111 smid87 dieselonly BobbyPollard TomatoBug
dieselbouy Nick mrbeavin yeshua73 Davo53209
mantajohan bkfran69 dcwier1 svego NEboy
kb2tha geodad REguy campbell sweetjeep
FastCote MikeT Hotwheelbill JettoFunk dilator
shuttlebus feverwilly
67 to date.
The nylon is in and should be ready to test next week. It is noticeably more solid than the LDP (as would be expected). We will ensure we use a source with measureable water content for the next round of tests as well.
-------------------------
85 MB 300D auto, 225k miles. Plantdrive kit @ 207.5k miles. SOLD
97 VW Passat TDI 5spd, 230k miles, Sprint520s, RC3, VR6 5 lug 15" wheel conversion, VR6 clutch, .658 5th, R1 Concepts slotted/drilled rotors, 2500 watt sound, Plantdrive kit @215k miles.
blhfla,
How do I pm, email, or contact you directly?
Quote:
Originally posted by: FastCote
blhfla,
How do I pm, email, or contact you directly?
I created a new account: affordablecentrifuge at yahoo dot com.
You can post that you have sent email if you wish as this is not my regular email.
-------------------------
85 MB 300D auto, 225k miles. Plantdrive kit @ 207.5k miles. SOLD
97 VW Passat TDI 5spd, 230k miles, Sprint520s, RC3, VR6 5 lug 15" wheel conversion, VR6 clutch, .658 5th, R1 Concepts slotted/drilled rotors, 2500 watt sound, Plantdrive kit @215k miles.
Thanks. Message sent.
Some of you guys just don't want to hear it huh...well it's not my money...lol
Quote:
Originally posted by: GreaseMaster
Some of you guys just don't want to hear it huh...well it's not my money...lol
Nah, naysayers are easy to find. I like to assimilate with the effective.
-------------------------
1994 Chev Suburban 6.5 diesel. Purchased with 162,000 miles. Installed GreaseCar kit. Now has 208,000 miles. Relocated PMD to air filter box.
"My grandfather rode a horse. My father drove a car. I flew a jet-plane. My son will ride a horse."
Quote:
Originally posted by: GreaseMaster
Some of you guys just don't want to hear it huh...well it's not my money...lol
Just go away!
-------------------------
Just keep'n my money where it belongs.......MY WALLET!
I don't have my filters yet, but somebody here (this topic is so big I can't find it) said that we could use levi's pant legs with a hose clamp at the bottom. is that right?
Because I did that last night. My oil is very clean to begin with, but with 2 pair of legs, clamped at the bottom and at the top with the hose to force the oil through worked very well for flow. but what do you think of the micron level with a pair of pants would be?
I settled the oil with salt and heat did the test and voilla' no water in test
Bruce,
If you are still open to design suggestions, I would like you to consider making the legs long enough to allow a six gallon pail to fit below the drain output. I am thinking the ideal setup would be a pail above and below, both 5-6 gallon. Bucket heater ($50 Ebay) in the top. That would make a nice small gravity feed setup. No pumps, no mess.
Thanks.
p.s.- another email sent.
Quote:
Originally posted by: FastCote
Bruce,
If you are still open to design suggestions, I would like you to consider making the legs long enough to allow a six gallon pail to fit below the drain output. I am thinking the ideal setup would be a pail above and below, both 5-6 gallon. Bucket heater ($50 Ebay) in the top. That would make a nice small gravity feed setup. No pumps, no mess.
Thanks.
p.s.- another email sent.
We've got you covered. The legs of the production units will be "modular", in fact the base (between the motor and the basin) will probably have short (maybe 2") "stubs" protruding down where leg extensions (probably 16") may be attached, in as many quantities as desired, ie. a 16" extension, or 32", 48", etc. This flexibility allows use of small buckets, large buckets, 55 gallon drums, etc.
The long one piece legs on the prototype were for facilitating the testing.
The top of the production units will have a support plate (where the legs are bolted to the top of the basin on the prototype) inside the basin that will safeguard the rotor as well as support a source bucket if desired.
Thanks for the email alert. I would appreciate everyone posting whenever an email is sent to that address otherwise I may not check it for some time. All other received emails have also been answered.
-------------------------
85 MB 300D auto, 225k miles. Plantdrive kit @ 207.5k miles. SOLD
97 VW Passat TDI 5spd, 235k miles, Sprint520s, RC3, VR6 5 lug 15" wheel conversion, VR6 clutch, .658 5th, R1 Concepts slotted/drilled rotors, 2500 watt sound, Plantdrive kit @215k miles.
Well, the new larger more robust nylon rotor was installed and tested today. We are VERY pleased with the results. The material is noticeably harder and more solid. Tapping it even produces a ceramic sound. Machining it was easier also.
The centrifuge runs MUCH smoother now, indeed the only vibration occurs on shutdown when the motor reaches a certain [resonant] frequency which causes a vibration until the speed surpasses that frequency range. This is one reason why some electric motors have a brake feature; we will be installing a brake feature as well to alleviate this problem, but NOT on the motor, instead on the rotor itself. The best way I can think of to describe the CF's operation now is "solid".
We ran a few samples through it that had several ounces of water in them and will send them to the lab. The processed samples had no visible water (the source had clearly visible cloudy, milky water laden oil). When we shutdown there was much visible water in the trapped sample (the CF successfully separated this water) and also in the rotor in puddles.
Unfortunately I left my camera and videocam in my house so I couldn't take any pictures, but we will probably do an endurance run soon and I'll get some pics then. In the meantime I can't wait for the lab results.
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85 MB 300D auto, 225k miles. Plantdrive kit @ 207.5k miles. SOLD
97 VW Passat TDI 5spd, 235k miles, Sprint520s, RC3, VR6 5 lug 15" wheel conversion, VR6 clutch, .658 5th, R1 Concepts slotted/drilled rotors, 2500 watt sound, Plantdrive kit @215k miles.
Bruce,
Are you still testing with the 2450 RPM motor or have you now moved up to the 3450? I am certainly willing to spend a few more bucks on the higher speed pump motor and just wanted to make sure this thing will be stable at higher RPM. Also, during your longevity tests, are you planning on cranking the temperature up somewhat and maybe also loading this thing up with some serious sludge? I am beyond eager for this thing. I had been studying the fabrication pictures on the SimpleCetrifuge site wondering where i could get all the welding and machine work done. Now, it looks promising that you will save me from all that expense and hassle. Thanks again for all your efforts.
I agree with Fastcote, make it a concerted effort to find the breaking point of the entire unit with regards to heat,rpm & material tolerances. Given that we've had the likes of "Engineer" touting the limitations of whatever material should be used for the rotor, than I believe that an actual stress test is in order, to see where it actually fails. In short, leave nothing to either speculation or guesswork.
Also, by discovering these tolerances at the shop, safety parameters can be established regarding the proper use of the centrifuge. Otherwise, you could risk some idiot doing something to hurt themselves, whereby having the efficacy of the centrifuge come into question.
Quote:
Originally posted by: Davo53209
I agree with Fastcote, make it a concerted effort to find the breaking point of the entire unit with regards to heat,rpm & material tolerances. Given that we've had the likes of "Engineer" touting the limitations of whatever material should be used for the rotor, than I believe that an actual stress test is in order, to see where it actually fails. In short, leave nothing to either speculation or guesswork.
Also, by discovering these tolerances at the shop, safety parameters can be established regarding the proper use of the centrifuge. Otherwise, you could risk some idiot doing something to hurt themselves, whereby having the efficacy of the centrifuge come into question.
Can you say product liability lawsuit?
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2006 Duramax LBZ, GC Kit with , Co-Pilot (Set it and forget it), 200 gal tank 5000 mile range, 8500 miles per VO 4 Mic absolute Filter,Inline Particle Counter for ISO rated WVO Cleanliness. Now I pass everything including the fuel station.
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I concur with the previous post by Davo53209 , use the best material possible .
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