I've got a leak!

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iamonlyfiction's picture
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Joined: 01/06/2009

Well .. I had one.

I had a leak where I tapped my 55 gal drum at the bottom for draining off the bad grease. It didn't get *too* messy, but I definitely don't want it to happen again.

It turns out my o'ring broke and the seal was really no longer sealed. What should I do about this? I want something fool-proof. If I knew how to weld then I would do that, but any type of equivalent will work for me. Any suggestions?

KirkH's picture
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Joined: 06/07/2008

I get the local welder to do it for me. He charges me $10 to put in 2 drainpipes, one at the bottom, one 12 inches above that. He also will put in a union for a water heater element for that price also, but I quit using WH elements.

__________________

2002 Powerstroke Greasecar kit, 20 plate heat exchanger, water injection, Aeroforce Scan Gauge II, ISSPro fuel pressure, trans temp, boost and EGT gauges, Cyberdyne grease and coolant temperature gauges, auxilliary coolant pump, 282,000 miles, 82,000 on grease.&nbsp

BrianMiller's picture
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Joined: 05/11/2006

Photobucket

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I use to be ForrestGump.., ,My BLOG,

iamonlyfiction's picture
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Joined: 01/06/2009

soo .. what about using an industrial sealant?

has anyone tried anything like this?

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4KM87

- travis

dgreenhouse2003's picture
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Joined: 06/25/2004

dont put a hole in the drum, it is asking for trouble. just go up the side and then back down in through the top. see the pics in my sig.

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1993 300D -
collection and filtration method described in detail here - http://www.geocities.com/dgreenhouse2003/collectandfilter.html

kb2tha's picture
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Joined: 01/18/2008

I just bought closed drums and cut the bottom out. Inverted the drums and used the threaded bungs for heater and drain ports.
Ken

RickJr's picture
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Joined: 10/26/2008

Quote:
Originally posted by: kb2tha
I just bought closed drums and cut the bottom out. Inverted the drums and used the threaded bungs for heater and drain ports.
Ken
Thats what I did too. Except I used the 3/4" hole to drain off the water/gunk at the bottom. And I got a fitting for the 2" hole from a friend who makes biodiesel that adapts the 2" hole to a 1" hole for connecting a ball valve on the outside, and a 3/4" hole on the inside for the purpose of threading in a pipe that goes up 5" or so above the gunk/water and I use this for my filtering. I wrapped the threads with teflon tape and screwed them in extremely tight. Then for extra protection I smeared the 24hour JB weld over the thread junctions. No leaks, nor do I ever anticipate any!!