My new custom built centrifuge system

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1-9-11

Well Gang, I just completed building my Acme Juicer(s) centrifuge.  After much guidance from Brian Miller (as usual), I stepped up his own juicer system with an improved self-contained rolling centrifuge cleaning and dispensing unit/system that is neat, clean, and anal (Chase approved, I hope!)

Before I begin, if you do not have time nor are relatively mechanically inclined, go and buy the centrifuge system that is $1,500 delivered to your door!  I think it is called “Absolute Centrifuge”.  This system is nicely built with integrated heat, etc, etc.  The only down side is that it is rated for 10 GPH (from what I was told).  My system can safely handle 60 GPH+ depending on heat and how clean my WVO is prior to entering the juicers.  That being said, if I had to purchase all material(s) needed for this project, I would be close to $1,000.00 without blinking an eye.  As it stands now, I have $450.00 into this system, which includes the 3-juicers ($130.00 from eBay) and 3-trips to Home Depot ($320.00).  The following material/equipment I had laying around in my shop: Stainless steel sewage ejection pump, plexi-glass, 4x4s, 2x4s, plywood, collection barrel, hoses, clamps, heavy duty casters, all sorts of hardware (hinges, handles, screws), silicone, and paint.  

Since my wife and I decided not to go away for the Christmas holiday (we really did not feel like getting groped up by some low-life TSA agent….call us silly.), I told her I wanted to build a centrifuge system.  Well, I lost myself in my shop for a total of 6-days (no B.S.)  Don’t get me wrong, I really enjoyed constructing this Centrifuge Frankenstein because I had the time and the patience, but if you do not have this time, this is not the route for you, trust me!

Okay:  First the juicers.  The Acme 6001 juicer is what I used.  My purchase range was $30.00 to $50.00 with shipping.  Cut some cheap (new) roofing flashing to cover the entire interior side screen section of the spinning bowl.  Use some goop/glue/silicone to attach the flashing to the inside of the blow to prevent anything from going through the perforated holes.  Try to smooth out the glue and leave a small metal overlap with your flashing.  Remember, this juicer spins at about 3,500 rpm's, so you want to keep it as balanced as possible.  Make sure your juicer is on a flat surface and that it (they) are level.  When wvo starts feeding into the juicer, it is going to wobble a bit.  My three did, so I used pipe insulation to make a perimeter cradle that allowed them to vibrate but not walk away.  Brian is a big fan of duct tape, bailing wire, and bungee cords.  They are all good for experimentation and setting things up.  I’m just a bit more obsessive compulsive than Miller is!

I constructed a wooden box (roughly 34” square by 48” high) on heavy duty casters with an internal shelf that holds the three juicers.  I bent up some aluminum flashing (resembling a “U”) and zipped screwed them to the juicer outlet spigot.  These aluminum channels terminate into my collection barrel.  I have the pump set for 20-gallons on a float switch.  The barrel can safely hold 30-gallons and I will adjust the output if I want to.   I encased the box with plywood on the bottom and plexi-glass on the sides and top.   I built a plexi glass hinged top box that surrounds the juicers while allowing the ¾” PVC to travel though the top box into the juicers.  I wanted everything to be enclosed so I can prevent any possible contamination of my clean oil from the elements.  Both wooden bottoms (juicer and barrel) have been sealed with silicone as to hold any possible wvo spilled within the box (and not on my new driveway!)

I constructed a ¾” PVC manifold (with a slight angle) through two 2x4 diagonal uprights (for PVC support.)  I can run one juicer at a time, two juicers at a time, or all three.  Each juicer has a dedicated valve to adjust the flow rate of wvo to them.

To heat the oil, I constructed a 2” black pipe with a thermostatically controlled hot water heater element inside.  Where the electric is attached to the element is where I have a “TEE’ and a right angle filling reduced to ¾ plastic reinforced hose that is connected to the PVC manifold on the centrifuge box.  I have my 275 gallon totes elevated as so the tote outlet tube (on the bottom) is a tad bit higher than the centrifuge manifold inlet.  Gravity (or head pressure) allows the oil to flow through the heat pipe, get hot, then flow through the PVC manifold, into the juicers, into the collection barrel, then pumped back into the same tote (or to the truck.)

It’s painted, it’s clean, it works great, and it’s mine!

I will post pictures if someone tells me how.  All of the centrifuge pictures are in my Photo Bucket account listed above.

Any questions?

Ask away.

Again, special thanks to Brian Miller for all of his help and input!

Ciao ciao for now.

Slate